Anonymous

asked Jan 13, 2009 at 3:15pm
Brother Brother AX 20

brother hl1850 service call error e52

e52 means there is a problem with the laser unit, it usually is just that it is not spinning at all or fast enough.

this worked perfectly for me on an hl-1850, awesome, saved me $220 or having to buy a new printer, THANKS SO MUCH, brother itself was of no help and their dealers just wanted to gouge me.

Step-by-step instruction:

1 – Remove gently the top cover of the printer ( 4 screws – 2 on top/front + 2 in back/side). [Front screws are revealed by pulling open the front cover.]
2 – Be careful with the connectors going to the top LCD panel. You might want to disconnect the shorter one. [Do disconnect the shorter one.]
3 – Remove the laser unit located on top of the printer covered by a steel plate.

To do that:
1 – Unplug (pull) the white flat connector going to the left side of the laser unit.
2 – Unscrew the 3 screws keeping the laser unit in place.
3 – The lower/right screw also maintains in place the second connector going to the unit. Remove it and unplug (pull) the connector. [This was untrue for me.]
4 – Squeeze out the laser unit from under the wires (going back and up).
[This would not have worked for me, because of a permanently wired cable that went tightly over the unit. Instead, I followed another poster's suggestion and took out the one screw holding the small circuit board in place.]

You now have the laser unit outside of the printer.
1 - Remove the steel plate of the laser unit. There is a plastic shutter that will come loose. Don’t loose it and take note of its location in case you need to put it back. [I did not see any shutter, nothing came loose.]
2 – Unscrew the 4 screws maintaining the motor section and remove it. [This is not necessary. Leave the board in place.]
3 – There is a small piece of black plastic that maintains the top part of the motor unit (with the mirrors) on the left side of the board. Twist it and remove it. [Twist it 90 degrees is sufficient; no need to remove it.]
4 – Pull up the mirror part.
5 – Be careful during all that not to touch any of the mirrors or prism or whatever seems to conduct light. If you do, you can always clean with isopropyl alcohol or glasses solution. [Since you have to touch the mirror to lift it, I just cleaned it routinely with an alcohol prep pad after I replaced it.]
[[DO NOT REMOVE THE C CLAMP, PULL UP OF THE HEXEGON MIRROR AND TWIST AS PULLING STRAIGHT UP, THE WHOLE UNIT WILL PULL OUT]]
6 – Put some sewing machine oil on the shaft. Juuuust a little. I used machine oil SAE 20 or 40 (not sure – I didn’t look). WD40 would probably work also. Again, not too much – wipe the excess. [ONE drop of lightweight machine oil. I would advise against WD40, it is a penetrating oil and may not be appropriate here.]
7 – Put everything back together.
be fair. i don't know what you're complaining about. do you actually expect any manufacturer or their dealers to take you through those steps so you can fix the printer yourself?

i think "you" are the unreasonable one........
by Anonymous on Jan 13, 2009 at 9:22pm Add comment
Yeah I really dont have a customer that I would go into that much detail in to help fix their problem they probably would think Im crazy for sugesting it. I would just state it either needs cleaned out and lubed or its time to replace. Cleaning should cost around 80 to 100 not really a big deal. Replacing it might be a different story. And over the phone or on this forum who can tell what condition the part is really in. Your right about the fix though that should do it but I think you copied some elses post I might be wrong and no do not use wd40.
by nivek on Jan 14, 2009 at 11:54am Add comment
AWESOME! THANK YOU THANK YOU! I love this heavy old Brother HL 1850 and the directions worked with a few slight changes that probably arise because of little variations Brother must have used in this model.

Here is the original with my modifications in CAPS that worked for me. MANY THANKS TO THE KIND PERSON WHO POSTED THIS FINE SOLUTION. I HAVE MY PRINTER BACK UP AND RUNNING AGAIN. IT SAVED ME FROM A BIG HASSLE OF REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT. THE HEAVY OLDER PRINTERS ARE MORE DURABLE THAN THE NEWER ONES. I ADVISE KEEPING THEM AS LONG AS POSSIBLE.

BEST,
Ed
---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------

"Step-by-step instruction:

1 – Remove gently the top cover of the printer ( 4 screws – 2 on top/front + 2 in back/side). [Front screws are revealed by pulling open the front cover.] USE A MAGNETIC TIPPED PHILLIPS HEAD. SOME SCREWS RESIDE WHERE THEY ARE EASY TO DROP INTO INCONVENIENT PLACES.
2 – Be careful with the connectors going to the top LCD panel. You might want to disconnect the shorter one. [Do disconnect the shorter one.]
3 – Remove the laser unit located on top of the printer covered by a steel plate.

To do that:
1 – Unplug (pull) the white flat connector going to the left side of the laser unit.
2 – Unscrew the 3 screws keeping the laser unit in place.
3 – The lower/right screw also maintains in place the second connector going to the unit. Remove it and unplug (pull) the connector. [This was untrue for me. - IT WAS TRUE ON MY PRINTER. IT'S JUST A METAL PLATE THAT HELPS LOCK THE CONNECTOR IN ONCE ASSEMBLED. MAKE NOTE OF HOW AND WHERE IT GOES ONCE YOU EXTRACT IT]
4 – Squeeze out the laser unit from under the wires (going back and up).
[This would not have worked for me, because of a permanently wired cable that went tightly over the unit. FOR MY PRINTER, THIS FLAT BAND IS A WIRE THAT SERVES AS ITS OWN PIN CONNECTOR. IT COMES OUT EASILY. Instead, I followed another poster's suggestion and took out the one screw holding the small circuit board in place. I DID SAME - MAKES ALL EASY]

You now have the laser unit outside of the printer.
1 - Remove the steel plate of the laser unit. THIS IS UNDERSTATED. THE STEEL PLATE LOCKS TO THE PLASTIC HOUSING IN A COUPLE OF TINY PLACES, SO DON'T FORCE OFF THE PLATE. LOOK CAREFULLY FOR THOSE PLACES, SQUEEZE TOGETHER PLATE AND HOUSING THEN PRY OPEN THE METAL SLIGHTLY TO FREE IT. USE A THIN SMALL SCREWDRIVER. I USED A SCREWDRIVER BLADE ON A POCKET KNIFE.] There is a plastic shutter that will come loose. Don’t lose it and take note of its location in case you need to put it back. [I did not see any shutter, nothing came loose.] THE SHUTTER IS A ROD WITH AN L-SHAPED HANDLE AT ONE END AND A LONGER L-SHAPED PIECE AT THE OTHER THAT MUST BE THE WORKING "SHUTTER." IT WILL DROP OFF AS YOU SEPARATE THE PLATE FROM THE PLASTIC HOUSING OF THE LASER. NO PROBLEM THOUGH. JUST CAREFULLY STUDY THE PLASTIC HOUSING AND THERE IS ONLY ONE WAY IT CAN GO BACK. IT JUST SITS THERE WITH NO FASTENERS. WHEN THE PLATE IS PUT BACK OVER THE UNIT, THE PLATE KEEPS IT FROM FALLING OUT. JUST REASSEMBLE BY PUTTING THE SHUTTER IN PLACE AND ALLOWING GRAVITY TO HOLD IT AS YOU PRESS THE METAL PLATE BACK ON FROM ABOVE. IF YOU TRY TO PUT THE LASER ASSEMBLY AND PLATE PIECES TOGETHER WITH THE METAL PLATE ON THE DOWN SIDE, THE SHUTTER WILL FALL OUT OF ITS POSITION AND CAN CAUSE REASSEMBLY ISSUES. JUST REMEMBER, "METAL PLATE SIDE UP."
2 – Unscrew the 4 screws maintaining the motor section and remove it. [This is not necessary. Leave the board in place.] ON MY PRINTER THERE ARE THE 4 SCREWS MENTIONED PLUS A FIFTH SCREW THAT TIGHTENS AGAINST A FLANGE OF THE MOTOR COVER AND HOLDS THE MOTOR IN PLACE. YOU CAN GET BY WITH REMOVING THAT FIFTH SCREW AND LIFTING THE MOTOR OUT, ALTHOUGH I HAD TAKEN OUT THE FOUR SCREWS BEFORE I DISCOVERED THAT WAS POSSIBLE. MY TAKING OUT THE 5TH SCREW PROVED TO BE MY STEP 3 EQUIVALENT TO THE STEP 3 NOTED BELOW. THERE WAS NEITHER A BLACK PLASTIC PIECE NOR ANY TWIST-AND-LIFT MECHANISM ON MY PRINTER.
3 – There is a small piece of black plastic that maintains the top part of the motor unit (with the mirrors) on the left side of the board. Twist it and remove it. [Twist it 90 degrees is sufficient; no need to remove it.]
4 – Pull up the mirror part.
5 – Be careful during all that not to touch any of the mirrors or prism or whatever seems to conduct light. If you do, you can always clean with isopropyl alcohol or glasses solution. [Since you have to touch the mirror to lift it, I just cleaned it routinely with an alcohol prep pad after I replaced it.]HANDLE THE MIRROR WHEN NECESSARY BY USING SOFT TOILET PAPER TO KEEP FINGERPRINT OIL OFF THE MIRRORS. DO A FINAL CLEANING WITH A MICROFIBER CLEANING CLOTH. ACE HARDWARE CARRIES TINY "ZWIPES" THAT WORKED WELL FOR ME.

[[DO NOT REMOVE THE C CLAMP, PULL UP OF THE HEXAGON MIRROR AND TWIST AS PULLING STRAIGHT UP, THE WHOLE UNIT WILL PULL OUT]---NOTE FROM enuhfer --THIS TWIST & PULL CONNECTION JUST WAS NOT AN OPTION ON MY PRINTER]
6 – Put some sewing machine oil on the shaft. Juuuust a little. I used machine oil SAE 20 or 40 (not sure – I didn’t look). WD40 would probably work also. Again, not too much – wipe the excess. [ONE drop of lightweight machine oil. I would advise against WD40, it is a penetrating oil and may not be appropriate here.] I USED "DUPONT TEFLON MULTIUSE LUBRICANT" ALSO AVAILABLE FROM ACE HARDWARE BECAUSE I WAS LEERY OF PLACING ANY OIL IN THE VICINITY OF MIRRORS. THE LUBE SEEMED TO WORK FINE
7 – Put everything back together.

by enuhfer on Oct 5, 2012 at 8:28pm Add comment
This procedure actually works, I have a Brother HL-1650 laser printer with the aforementioned error code and after I followed the prescribed procedure it fixed the issue, a word of caution though you must posses some basic understanding of electronics to preform this procedure...saved me a great deal of money.
by Ragncajun80 on Apr 1, 2013 at 7:15pm Add comment
Just commenting to say I just managed to fix my Brother HL-1670N using this procedure. I accidentally pulled the flat white connector band out of its housing since it wouldn't come off the board (metal plate has a slot and it's too skinny, maybe), but I just stuck it back in and it works fine. Used 3-in-one multipurpose oil (think it's SAE 17). First attempt actually didn't work - the motor was definitely oiled and running fine, but it only printed blank pages. Went back in, realized I'd put the shutter back in wrong due to the fact that I didn't get to see where it went in the first place (I pulled the metal plate DOWN off the plastic housing, and the shutter went with it since it's not connected to anything) (shutter placement: the long flat end sits in front of the crescent lens, look for a nook to seat the rest of it) and cleaned off the mirrors and lenses with an alcohol wipe. Worked like a charm. Thanks so very much to the folks who took the time to post the procedure.
by emkeev on Sep 4, 2015 at 12:15pm Add comment