unknown

asked Sep 4, 2003 at 4:17am
Hp HP LaserJet 8150

HP 8150 printer


I have this printer having powersupply problem.
It shows error msg 50.1 -- Fuser error.

I confirmed it by swapping with another printer.

I like to know which parts of the powersupply is giving problem ?


As promissed, pictures (before the repair)
http://www.zemel.com/images/HP8150/HP8150lvps.jpg (Underside of LVPS)

http://www.zemel.com/images/HP8150/HP8150lvps1.jpg (closeup of Q600 & D601)

I hope this helps someone. Just a small way of paying back all the good this site has done for me.
by Andy Z on Sep 22, 2006 at 5:16am Add comment
I've got the same problem. The thig was that a thermal sensor on the top of the upper roller was bad, so there was no signal from it and the fuser lamps wont heat up. You may test it.
by Andy on Sep 11, 2003 at 11:59pm Add comment
I would like to thank EVERYONE on here who posted suggestions, diagrams, and information in general. Sure enough, got my 8150n apart, removed the LVPS, examined, and Q600 center pin was without solder. $15 bucks (including the soldering iron) and about an hour and were back up and running. You guys are amazing, I never would have gotten this one on my own. Thanks alot. If I can ever repay any of you with network engineering assistance feel free to email me.
by unknown on Apr 24, 2006 at 3:49pm Add comment
You can use a paper clip to keep the shutter open. The only thing about using a paper clip, the top cover is not engaing the shutter anymore. If I can't fix something onsite, a paper clip will normally do the trick in certain circumstances. This will get things going again until I get a part.
by msr976 on Nov 15, 2006 at 6:42am Add comment
replace the fuser,its not the power supply.
by unknown on Sep 5, 2003 at 6:38pm Add comment


There is nothing wrong with the fuser unit.

The problem is from the powersupply.
-- Dc woltage to LCD panel - ok
-- Fuser lamp can't heated up

Can anyone help which components failed?
by unknown on Sep 8, 2003 at 7:03pm Add comment

There is no problem with the whole fuser unit assembly.

I found the problem -- Powersupply unit
Q200 fail -- 2sk2371 & resistor at this FET -- 12 ohms
by unknown on Sep 12, 2003 at 12:14am Add comment
Gerald,

Was this part on the LVPS.
Was the FET and the resistor
both bad.Did you replace these
parts and did it work.And finally
did you have any problem finding
the FET.

Pete
by petillo on Apr 4, 2005 at 12:15pm Add comment
50.1 is a common error, majority of the time the fuser is not bad. I solved this problem numerous times by replacing the entire LVPS.
by unknown on Apr 21, 2005 at 7:17am Add comment
I've recently got this message on my 8150, we own 2 of these printers so I swapped the fuser from the working one to the other and the message persisted.

Where do I go from here? Where can I order an LVPS and how hard is it to replace? :)

-- Rob
by oeginc on May 7, 2005 at 3:00pm Add comment
Not that hard to replace. Problem is the cost. About 400.00 at HP.com. Go to this link:

http://partsurfer.hp.com/cgi-bin/spi/main

You could try partsnow.com or depot-america.com or even email Moe at this site, but the part is pricey.
by dmzcompute on May 7, 2005 at 4:03pm Add comment
You can also check out www.printerworks.com they have good prices but in all honesty its hit or miss...Worth Checking Out - Anonymous
In most instances you can fix the LV Power supply if you have a soldering iron. The solder connections open from heat. Just go around and hit all the suspicious looking ones, mostly the ones that have larger pins. They are the ones that carry the current to the fuser.
by moe on May 8, 2005 at 2:48pm Add comment
I have the same problem.

I replaced the LVPS yesterday and was working fine afterward. Today it gave me the 50.3 error. I turned it off and uplugged it. When I turned it back on it said 50.1 error.

I tore it apart. I don't see any problem on the LVPS board. Nothing burnt or fried. I checked the DC Controller board. I don't see anything.

Could it be the fuser sensor or switch?
How can I test?

What do you think?

Thanks for any help
Nick - nickhill2002
As Moe stated - open solder joints, not the fuser. And you generally can fix it if the problem has recently occurred. The main place I've found is the center of three pins for the largest power regulator at the top of the larger board - the solder just disintegrates from heat. It may have a lot to do with the vents getting blocked for cooling air as I find all the LVPS units that have this are heavily blocked with crap at the vent. It appears that the regulator in question supplikes power to the heater bulb of the fuser so it may also be just heat from fuser heting current causing the drop off of the solder.

Don't touch the chip type parts when resoldering and use about a 40 watt chisel tip iron - too little heat does no good and too much will damage the semiconductor components. - Anonymous
Since you allready replaced the LVPS I would mainly focus on replacing the fuser(entire assembly).However, there are a number of possibilities with the 50.1 error. 1: the Fuser, 2: LVPS, 3: DC Controller, 4: the Fixing Cable Assembly (the port which the fuser plugs into RG5-4302-000. Make sure your power cable is unplugged before installing these parts. Nevermind the nice shock you may get but it also may fry your new parts.
by unknown on May 10, 2005 at 10:34am Add comment
Is there any way you know of testing the power output of the LVPS or testing the fuser. I would hate to tell my boss to order a fuser and it not be the problem.

What is so odd is it worked for a day then broke again.

Thank you
by nickhill2002 on May 11, 2005 at 7:41am Add comment
You could check the fuser resistance. Remember, there are 2 lamps in the fuser to check. Should be under 5 ohms. If the resistance measures out ok, I'd discount the fuser as the cause and go for a DC controller next.
by moe on May 11, 2005 at 8:09am Add comment
Ok, so now that we've determined *MY* problem might be the LVPS, where is it? :) I'm not technically illiterate, but instead of tearing apart the whole printer trying to find it perhaps someone knows an easy way to get to it. I assume it's back somewhere near the power cord, or even where the power cord plugs in, right? Any diagrams or anything I can glance at online?

by oeginc on May 13, 2005 at 9:57am Add comment
It is the entire metal unit the power cord plugs into.

If you take the large panel off the back of the printer. (Opposite side of the LED display) It's the metal box that runs the entire length of the printer.

When you remove this metal housing turn it over and you see a circuit board. I know when I replaced mine I received the metal casing and everything attached.

http://catanich.com/detail.asp?pn=RG5-4357-000

Call the 800 #.
This is a link to a website for Printer Parts Solutions. Ask for a refurbished one. $189.
Nick - nickhill2002
If it is the LVPS, most of the errors can be fixed by resoldering the components on the board. If that doesn't work, you've lost nothing except some time.
by moe on May 13, 2005 at 10:09am Add comment
I've found the majority of 50.1 fuser errors are the lvps .. hard to miss it once you take off the back cover.

http://h20141.www2.hp.com

it's the large rectangle part in this diagram .. off the top of my head I think you have to remove the fan on located just above the plug to access one of the screws but other than that it's pretty straight forward.

The service manual suggests it could be the dc controller as well, but I find that's rare. First step though power the printer off for 20 mins to clear the error ... everytime you get the error
by temp0r on May 15, 2005 at 7:58pm Add comment
Those power supply's are pretty pricy, if any of you need one I can get them like half price. Email me at [email protected] and I'll give you an exact price. No advertising or scam, I just have a really good source for parts
by unknown on May 18, 2005 at 9:35pm Add comment
It's interesting to read that so many 50.1 errors are caused by a faulty power supply, something that I have never seen, but I live in Holland and we've got 230 volts, I suppose that could be the reason.

Brian
by unknown on May 19, 2005 at 1:04am Add comment
Ok, I tried removing the LVPS and touching up the solder joints on the larger pins which didn't seem to work... I did however swap the LVPS between our two printers (leaving everything else the same) and it DID work, so I have narrowed it down to DEFINITELY being the LVPS....

Now.. While touch the soldering joints, I noticed there are a couple pots on the board. Is it possible that one or more of those are out of tweak, and if so is there any way to (safely) measure the voltage coming out (while it's not connected to the printer) to adjust them? Or wouldn't you even bother going down this road....

Local4130 said:
> "Those power supply's are pretty pricy, if any of you need one I can get them like half price"

1/2 of the $189 price Nick posted about above, or 1/2 of the $400 price quoted from part solutions or wherever?
by oeginc on May 20, 2005 at 1:26pm Add comment
I too have the same problem and I would like to order the part on line. Can anyone give me that LVPS part number.

Thanks.
by Mordred on Jun 30, 2005 at 7:51am Add comment
C4214-69020

Cost is over 300.00 at hp.com.
by dmzcompute on Jun 30, 2005 at 1:34pm Add comment
That's an out of date number, the C4214-69020, replaced with the C4265-69006 that goes for $101 exchange (you send your bad one back or pay a hefty core fee). Remember that if you want to try to repair to PROFESSIONALLY solder the unit - if it's damaged from messing with it HP and others have the option of refusing the core. Those that are ASP certified in the 8100 and 8150 line will get the $101 unit for much less since they are discounted but of course there's alwas that high HP flat shipping to deal withbut still under $100 total for an ASP order. Of course if you solder and fix it then you have no cost other than 15 mins of time.

Reading the entire string it seems that most want to hit and miss with this 50.1 - it is more times than not the LVPS, then the fuser. Rarely is it the DC controller but you may find in some instances (carry over from the 5Si and 8000) that a poor rebuild will conflict with the duplexer casuing this. Remove the duplexer if yours is equipped and see if it goes away after power down and power on.

For those curious if the solder joints are bad - in most cases the solder joints will appear normal - get a good 5x or better magnifier on the larger joints especially the ones for the triacs (units with three legs that attach to the heat sink with a screw, like 5 of them on an 81xx LVPS) and you'll see the bad joint. A 40 watt soldering iron combined with a touch of new resin core electronics solder to a nice wet flow should do it. I've only had one so far that actually had a bad part on it.

For those with similar 50.1 on 5Si and 8000 models the LVPS is 2 boards in the metal housing but it's a similar fix. Not as often to have the problem but it does happen.

Russ Blakeman, RB Custom Services, Clarkson KY USA - Anonymous
Additionally note that many of the rebuilds from 3rd parties are not warranteed beyond receipt of DOA where HP has a better warranty. Wanna see some ridiculous pricing for parts go to Code Micro's site - they'll sell you the 50 cent fuse available from Hp for a mere $161 each plus $14 shipping.

By the way the comment of the shock - you have to remove the power cord to get the back cover off to remove the LVPS so it's a given. Also the formatter has to come out and the cover on that end so that the formatter fan assy can come off. Not gonna get shocked unless you get stupid.

The dim panel is likely a bad solder joint. If you aren't skilled with a soldering pencil get a new one, otherwise hit all the joints on the display unit and see if it works. You do stand the chance of messing it up though so be ready to buy a replacement anyway - if you fix it then great otherwise get one on order, you've done what you can. Alternative to expensive replacement - check ebay for a salvaged one.

Russ Blakeman, RB Custom Services, Clarkson KY USA - Anonymous
The LVPS can be purchased for 101.00 at hp parts surfer

part# C4265-69006 This requires a core return.

http://partsurfer.hp.com
by unknown on Jul 13, 2005 at 9:21am Add comment
Thank you for the information guys. I did got the part and when I installed it, the printer works just fine.
by Mordred on Jul 13, 2005 at 10:58am Add comment
Increase brightness on Printer Screen Display. Can only see the display in total darkness. Thanks. Brand new first time use
by unknown on Jul 22, 2005 at 9:47pm Add comment
Are you asking how to increase the brightness on the display? You can't. You have to replace it.
by moe on Jul 22, 2005 at 10:23pm Add comment
For those curious - the above C4265-69006 rebuilt LVPS at $101 list that requires a core - the core is $458 if you don't send one back...can be either am RG5-4300 or RG5-4357 model LVPS but do make sure to ship one back or it's not economical at all. Not sure what Moe sells them for (if he does) but I'm sure he has a core policy as well.

Russ Blakeman, RB Custom Services, Clarkson KY USA
http://service.rbcsweb.net
by unknown on Aug 10, 2005 at 7:30pm Add comment
I took the printer back. It took three printers to get one that worked. Wrote HP a letter asking about their lack of quality control...Still waiting for an answer, thanks for your advice.
by unknown on Aug 10, 2005 at 7:34pm Add comment
Stefi,

I don't think you are talking about an 8150.

Maybe you posted to the wrong thread.

Stephen
by Stephen on Aug 10, 2005 at 7:36pm Add comment
I think so too Stephen - the 8150's aren't being sold anymore new I don't think.

Russ Blakeman, RB Custom Services, Clarkson KY USA
http://service.rbcsweb.net

- Anonymous
The HP 8150 Printer is still being sold in Canada.
by unknown on Aug 10, 2005 at 8:31pm Add comment
Believe it or not it is still a current product. If you go to hP.com you can buy it new online. We have a customer who just bought one about a month ago to use with an 2000 sheet feeder that was on a 8000.
by dmzcompute on Aug 10, 2005 at 8:34pm Add comment
Yeah they sure are...dropped considerably as well.
by Anonymous on Aug 10, 2005 at 8:40pm Add comment
HI i have a hp8150n and when I plug it in it works fine but after 15-20min the power cord gets really hot and starts to melt, dose any one have any ideas what it can be, I think it might be the power supplies but I am not a hp tech so I really don’t know

thanks

chris
by cslavisnkas on Nov 4, 2005 at 9:02am Add comment
Bet you have a cord too light in gauge for the current the machine draws. Make sure that the cord you use is marked (usually imprinted in the outer jacket) 14-3 or 12-3 rather than the cheapo 16-3 or 18-3 cords made for PC use. If it were the power supply shorting it has an internal fuse that should blow.

You didn't mention if you were 110v or 220v but the theory is the same regardless.

Russ Blakeman, Owner/Tech
RB Custom Services
Clarkson, KY USA
http://service.rbcsweb.net
by Anonymous on Nov 4, 2005 at 9:13am Add comment
GOODAY I HAVE JUST BOUGHT THE 8150,, I HAVE SPENT TWO DAYS TRYING TO SET IT UP ON MY BOX,, I HAVE JUST REALISED THAT THE DISC THAT I HAVE MUST BE THE WRONG ONE,, AS ALL IT WANTS TO DO ,IS SET UP THE 1315 WHICH I ALREADY HAVE ON MY DESK..I RECKON THAT THE DISC I HAVE ,HASNT GOT WHAT IT SAYS ON THE GREEN AND WHITE LABEL,, THAT IS 320, 370, 7400 AND 8100 SERIES PRINTERS..OTHER THAN TELLING ME TO GO TO WHERE I BOUGHT IT, HAVE YOU ANY SOLUTION TO MY DILEMER.. DON RICH
by Anonymous on Nov 13, 2005 at 12:45am Add comment
First off do not shout. Using all capital letters is shouting. If it is the LaserJet 8150 and you are using XP the drivers are built into the operating system. You can also go to hp.com and download the drivers. If you are trying to setup on a network, look on the network card for the model such as jetdirect 615N or 620N and go to hp.com, download and drivers and download the simple printing software for that card. HP makes it very easy to setup. If the printer is the Photosmart 8150 you really need to start your own thread to get help. Hp.com is another place to look for the drivers.
by dmzcompute on Nov 13, 2005 at 7:08am Add comment
I have 3 8150's that have failed with the same 50.1 fuser error in the last week. Have any others seen this kind of thing happen? It does seem unusual that that many would start dropping out all at once.
by oheady on Nov 21, 2005 at 7:20am Add comment
You guys are awesome. I had a 50.3 error, rebooted the printer and then got the 50.1 error. I took the LVPS apart and sure enough the solder on D601 was evaporated. The solder joint on the middle pin of Q600 wasn't very pretty either so I touched it up too. After re-soldering those two parts its all good now. Thanks!!
by unknown on Nov 27, 2005 at 12:21pm Add comment
I think this forum is great, but I'm still having problems with the 50.1 Fuser Error. I've tried two different fuser replacements so far, so I took apart the power supply. Thanks to you guys, I saw two broken D601 solder joints and fixed those by adding a little more solder to the left and right pins. The center one looked okay. I also touched up the Q600 joints, even tho they looked okay too. I couldn't find any other places that looked suspicious, but after putting the power supply back in, I still get the error.

It seems very strange that fixing the D601 solder points didn't fix the problem, and I was pretty disappointed after reconnecting and powering on. I had cleared a few pounds of dust off the LVPS vents, fixed the D601 pins and thought the problem was licked. I don't have another LVPS to swap out, but do you have any more suggestions?

Thanks. - Anonymous
Yeah, they are. I had already 3 similar cases. LVPS all the time and even the same D601! Thanks again! - AMT
Oheady,

Unfortunate, but not unusual.

ST
by Stephen on Nov 27, 2005 at 5:36pm Add comment
I have 2 that are exibiting the error. I put in a new....(rebuilt)LVPS and have the same problem. Interestingly enough when the rebuilt was put in and the time came to initialize the fuser there was a noticeable POP. Anyone have this occurr.
by unknown on Nov 30, 2005 at 11:32am Add comment
A refurbished LVPS seems to have fixed one of them. I am waiting on 2 more to arrive from my supplier to see if the fix works on the other 2 I have. As of right now the LVPS appears to be a viable fix.
by oheady on Nov 30, 2005 at 11:36am Add comment
I should have said that a new fuser was installed from the box first ..... did not work, then the new LVPS ...... did not work, and the pops occurred. Now an 8100DN is jammin' at the fuser.

by johell on Nov 30, 2005 at 11:53am Add comment
I would assume the refurbished LVPS is bad. Easy to check, just move the new fuser to the 8100DN with the jam as it is the same fuser and if it works you know the LVPS was bad. If it does not work, then the fuser may have had an issue or the new (rebuilt) LVPS blew it out.
by dmzcompute on Nov 30, 2005 at 11:59am Add comment
The dreaded 50.1 error (low fuser temp)

this is a nasty one in all the 8000 series and is 99\% of the time the low voltage power supply...the techies will tell you to try another fuser but it is futile...open the left door and put the back of your knuckle on the heat warning sticker and if there is no heat at all then you are looking at the LVPS...don't let any tech replace the DC controller before the lvps even though the service manual says so...any good tech will have run across this error before and knows what to do...the repair is not difficult and the labour shouldn't be too steep...gotcha's on this one include incoming power issues (these printers draw about 13 amps and need the lion's share of power from most 15 amp circuits...try directly plugging into the wall instead of into a UPS or power bar)...when all else fails try a cold reset (after removing your jetdirect network card so your network settings are unaffected)...as stated in other posts, if you are a soldering iron wizard then just get in there and find the bad joint and save your money for fun and frolic
by Rocket Scientist on Dec 2, 2005 at 12:27am Add comment
OK.. How do I do a cold reset on this machine?? (and I don't even care if I loose the JetDirect settings) lol
by unknown on Dec 5, 2005 at 2:22pm Add comment
OK.. How do I do a cold reset on this machine?? (and I don't even care if I loose the JetDirect settings) lol
by unknown on Dec 5, 2005 at 2:22pm Add comment
OK.. How do I do a cold reset on this machine?? (and I don't even care if I loose the JetDirect settings) lol
by unknown on Dec 5, 2005 at 2:22pm Add comment
Turn the power off. Hold the go button while powering on the printer. Cold Reset will appear on the menu and then initializing will appear. You can release the button. After a short period restoring factory defaults will appear. Hit go button when do to get to ready.
by dmzcompute on Dec 5, 2005 at 2:28pm Add comment
ROCKET SCIENTIST is my hero! Finally someone who knows what the hell they are talking about. 50.1 is a POWER ISSUE and that does not automatically mean the LVPS.
FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS CHECK YOUR POWER CONNECTION TO THE WALL OUTLET!! If anything else is plugged in, UNPLUG IT! Try the printer on another outlet too cuz the circuit may be overloaded.

The service manual is wrong also. If you MUST replace parts, this is the order to do it:

Fuser
LVPS
Fixing Cable Assembly
DC Controller

There are no other parts you need to replace. 75\% resolve with new fuser, if that doesn't resolve then a LVPS will resolve the remaining cases 99\% of the time. Fixing cable & DC Controller replacement is absolutely RARE!

I urge EVERYONE who posted here except Rocket Scientist to read this document because there is no bloody need to get out the soldering iron to fix these printers!!!

http://h20000.www2.hp.com

Any ASP has access to more detailed work instructions from the HP ASP Online Work Instruction pages, contact reseller support to get in on this.
by Anonymous on Dec 14, 2005 at 8:27pm Add comment
Something else into a wall outlet has nothing to do with it unless a piss-poor electrician wired. 50.1 is displayed when the formatter does not get the correct level of temperature from the fuser and since error messages only tell you a numeric (sometimes) and a generic error by name then you as user or repairer have to figure out what is the root cause of the error being generated. Example is 13.1 paper jam - means that a sensor didn't trigger correctly, doesn't have to have a big wad of paper inside. It could have NO paper inside due to paper pickup failures. You as the intelligent human that is troubleshooting has to figure out the actual problem that causes the machine to show the error. The display error is not supposed to tell you what the exact faulty item is.

So if you get a 50.1 you could have a bad fuser because a thermistor failed or the lamps didn't heat or a bad cabling on the fuser - end users and field techs generally don't do more than swap in a fuser to try to correct. Ok it didn't work so it's something else. Does is mean that your engine is bad when the check engine light is on? No it means an engine related failure is imminent or happening - could be a loose gas cap too. Ok back the printer. If changing the fuser didn't correct then it's not getting correct power. The service manual mentioned dc controller as it's the relay board for the power in the printer. It was usually the next best bet until they found an abnormality on the LVPS. If your car stalls and no gas at the carb then you have to suspect the pump since there is gas in the tank. Well it can be something odd in rare instances - crimped line due to a mechanical contact of an item that was not usual or forseen - this is much in the same theory with the LVPS.

MOST (about 80\%) of the 50.1 errors will result in LVPS solder joints (or even triac) failures but putting in a fuser first will check the fuser to see if it;s good and if no change the new way of thinking due to an overwhelming majority of failures of LVPS units is to bypass the cable and DCC and go to LVPS which is the source for the power to the fuser lamps, the DCC is just the on/off switch - or control. Maybe 1/10th of 1\% of failures for 50.1 are the cable, maybe 2\% for DCC and probably 10\% actually are fuser. I repair 5 to 10 8100 and 8150 machines a day for a major mortgage corp - I can validate these numbers.

As for ASPs - this info in "technical work instructions" just showed up nto long ago, and then recently HP screwed up the technical info site so bad that nothing is easy to find anymore.

Russ Blakeman
Owner/Tech
RBCS
Clarkson, Ky - Anonymous
Anonymous,

As Rocket Scientist said 99\% of the time it is the low voltage ps. My experience has been the same. 99\% of the time it is the lvps. I always have a fuser with me and always the error stays even with the new fuser. Moe's experience is that sometimes and I say sometimes some of the solder connections on the lvps degrade and resoldering them will fix the issue. It is worth a try for those people who do not want to spring for the 100.00 for a new or rebuilt lvps. Every 50.1 error i have encountered is always on the printer at startup and do not relate to any paper jam mentioned in the document you provide the link.
by dmzcompute on Dec 14, 2005 at 8:48pm Add comment
Also this error is showing up on 5Si and 8000 series printers - LVPS is different in design but came theory and about 75\% of 50.1 on these are LVPS solder joints rather than fuser. Rare to see a bad DCC on a 5Si or 8000.

Russ Blakeman
Owner/Tech
RBCS
Clarkson, Ky
by Anonymous on Dec 14, 2005 at 8:58pm Add comment
Cold reset has nothing to do with the 50.1 and will NOT clear it. You will lose serial number and page/maint counts and of course (unless you pull it out before powering back on) the Jetdirect will clear too.

If the fuser is cold it means 1) the bulbs are dead, they create the heat - one open of the two causes both to stay cold 2) no power to the fuser high current circuit which is why the DCC was mentioned in the manual - it was at the time the engineer's best bet for a failure and if the LVPS solder joint failure thing hadn't come up it still would be. It's now the LVPS as it takes the 110V (since the 220 machines don't seem to exhibit this problem) and makes the different voltages for all parts of the printer including powering the HVPS which only provides 5000v for the transfer roller(s).

Those that want to fix your unit right - do the fuser continuity test for ohms in the manual, or put the suspect fuser in a working machine if available, or a known good fuser in the printer. If nothing then suspect the LVPS next. You can solder it but don't mess with the chip type components - it's the legs of the triacs, generally the center of the three n each triac - that has a crack due to heating then cooling causing expansion and contraction - in rare cases too much heat causing total drop out of solder that is the problem. In a tiny amount of cases the triac will fail itself due to the solder joint failure. If you don't know how to solder then buy a quality refurbished LVPS.

Cold reset, bah.

Russ Blakeman
Owner/Tech
RBCS
Clarkson, Ky
by Anonymous on Dec 14, 2005 at 9:10pm Add comment
you are thinking of an nvram reset Russ...cold reset doesn't touch page counts or serial number or maintenance count...small oversight but a good time to heed the warnings of doing the nvram reset...print a config and usage and menu map before ever resetting nvram...it is simple to reinstall the values in service mode...non volatile memory is where these values are kept...and unless you really suspect or need to reset the jetdirect I always remove it for the cold reset...it won't solve the 50.1 but the recent service note will if your serial number falls within the covered range...call HP and verify if disbelief invades your perspective...amazing it took them so long to introduce the note but it is here friends so use it - Anonymous
For anyone in need of a brand new sealed HP OEM RG5-4357 LVPS see my ebay auction item 6830555280 which ends this weekend. $531 list from HP and they require a core return. No core return required for this item. USA only though.

by Anonymous on Dec 14, 2005 at 9:20pm Add comment
I was congratulating Rocket Scientist because he mentioned what nobody else did, the fact that these printers use 12-13 of the available 15 amps at the outlet. If you've got a xerox or another printer on the same plug, best of luck to you but you're going to have problems galore with 50.1's and print quality.

A 13.1 jam doesn't mean that there is a paper jam at the sensor. It could also mean that paper hasn't arrived at the sensor in the time its supposed to. Just like a 54.2 Carousel error on the 8550's doesn't mean the carousel teeth are broken, just that the carousel didn't hit the home position in time.

I haven't had access to the technical work instructions since this time last year but they were great. I worked for HP providing support for these printers (the high end lasers) and am aware of only 3 cases out of hundreds where replacing the DC controller resolved this issue.

I still stand by the fact that power outlets & what else is plugged into them/the circuit is the #1 thing to look for, followed by fuser swaps. LVPS is common to replace but you have to do these simple things first. Don't waste your time & don't waste customers money on something that could be a simple resolution.
by Anonymous on Dec 15, 2005 at 2:16pm Add comment
the latest anonymous poster is bang on with the service note...how do I know...I posted it...(forgot to sign in)...and thanks to the other anonymous for the compliment...I have seen service calls begin and end with old buildings and their shoddy incoming power coupled with umpteen devices rammed in a $5 power bar and crammed behind a dirty desk...I have seen 2 8150's in the same 15 amp circuit blow out an office full of computers the first time they both powered up together...stressing the amount of power it takes to run a big laserjet isn't a common theme or a common problem but it does baffle even the best IT guy once in a while...enough about that subject because it is rare as a virgin in Vegas...the 50.1 isn't rare...it is as common as a kid learning to play "Smoke on the Water" on his first guitar

Happy upcoming year you tonerheads!
by Anonymous on Dec 27, 2005 at 8:11pm Add comment
did it again...guess I don't know PC's like I know printers...even a rocket scientist sometimes blows up the lab
by Rocket Scientist on Dec 27, 2005 at 8:13pm Add comment
Something you might find of interest from a well established, well known major refurbisher and parts supplier:

http://www.partsnow.com/service_today/0204tt.asp

Russ Blakeman
RB Custom Services
Clarkson, KY USA
by Anonymous on Dec 28, 2005 at 7:50pm Add comment
Interesting case. I have have dealt with many 50.1 errors on 8150's of which 90\% were caused by LVPS failure. I have never had a 5si, 8000 or surprisingly a 8100 with a LVPS induced 50.1. It would be interesting to note the serial number ranges of 8150's with this all too common problem. I suspect there will be a link. Anyone know for sure? I am going to start noting the serial numbers on those 8150 with a LVSP induced 50.1
by paulmss2 on Jan 11, 2006 at 7:03pm Add comment
Interesting case. I have have dealt with many 50.1 errors on 8150's of which 90\% were caused by LVPS failure. I have never had a 5si, 8000 or surprisingly a 8100 with a LVPS induced 50.1. It would be interesting to note the serial number ranges of 8150's with this all too common problem. I suspect there will be a link. Anyone know for sure? I am going to start noting the serial numbers on those 8150 with a LVSP induced 50.1
by paulmss2 on Jan 11, 2006 at 7:04pm Add comment
Interesting case. I have have dealt with many 50.1 errors on 8150's of which 90\% were caused by LVPS failure. I have never had a 5si, 8000 or surprisingly a 8100 with a LVPS induced 50.1. It would be interesting to note the serial number ranges of 8150's with this all too common problem. I suspect there will be a link. Anyone know for sure? I am going to start noting the serial numbers on those 8150 with a LVSP induced 50.1
by paulmss2 on Jan 11, 2006 at 7:04pm Add comment
I should be getting my support notes in the next month or two, I will have a look at the serial numbers that I documented for the 50.1 on th 8150's. I'm pretty sure there was some in common but it could also be a batch of LVPS which I won't have the SN's for.
by unknown on Jan 12, 2006 at 4:06pm Add comment
You could try replacing the LVPS outright. I think they run about $100.

I don't know of too many DC Controllers that go bad very often.

You could check the cabling assembly from the LVPS to the fuser, however.
by wlulham on Jan 25, 2006 at 9:29am Add comment
I had this case the other day. Measured the Lamps / Thermistor to give me an idea to see if the fuser was good or not. The values were within the level they were suppose to be so I swapped the LVPS and it fixed up the problem.
by Trip on Feb 1, 2006 at 6:02am Add comment
Just adding my two cents. Rocket Sci was dead on btw.

My company has an 8150DN, got a 50.1 today, i googled it and found this. I took the thing all apart and sure enough the middle pin on one of the triacs that had Q600 printed next to it had a noticable crack and gap at the joint with some pretty beatup looking solder bits still clinging. I am SURE this the cause, all other joints look fine on the board. I will bring my iron in tomorrow and let you all know what happens,... Threads like this make the internet an amazing tool. Thanks to everybody that posted.

Hey where is that D601 you mentioned AMT?
Thanks.
by Anonymous on Feb 1, 2006 at 3:44pm Add comment
I followed your advice and sure enough the solder on d601 was cracked. Hopefully this sovles the problem.



D601 is one of the rectifying diodes that connected to the huge heatsink towards the top of the board. Its right by the really annoying square 4 pin connector. If your looking at the board from the top its right above the inductor labled 1-416-540-11 sony 71801.
I hope this helps.


Thanks for the tips folks.

by unknown on Feb 16, 2006 at 1:07pm Add comment
The Q600 triac, center pin, was missing solder alltogether and had a burn spot. Removed burn residue, resoldered, now working fine. Total time to repair was 45 minutes including taking off panels and removing power supply and board, then putting back together. Glad I came across this forum. Thanks everyone.
by unknown on Apr 4, 2006 at 5:27am Add comment
Just another thank-you for this thread - I have 2 8150's and replaced the LVPS on one about a month and a half ago - and today the other printer's LVPS failed - came right back here to confirm my guess as to the problem.

btw - my source gets me the part on exchange for $125 shipped (I pick it up) direct from HP (my source is the VAR I used to work for) - just to give you a heads up on the going rate out there - that is LOW from what I have seen - my own companies in-house repair group wanted to charge me $230 - in both cases it is an exchange.

Thanks again!!
by unknown on Apr 27, 2006 at 11:38am Add comment
As Moe stated - open solder joints, not the fuser. And you generally can fix it if the problem has recently occurred. The main place I've found is the center of three pins for the largest power regulator at the top of the larger board - the solder just disintegrates from heat.

Thanks Moe. You painted a bullseye on the problem right down to the pin. There was a hair line break all the way around the pin. An inspection light with magnifying glass made this real obvious. It made for an easy fix. Our printer is working fine again. Great information!
by unknown on May 2, 2006 at 1:11pm Add comment
HP is replacing many 8150 LVPS for $0, and they pay a tech to install them for you.

There is a current service note for the 50.1 caused by LVPS problem.
by Stephen on May 4, 2006 at 6:47pm Add comment
can someone direct me (link preferably) how to get HP to fix this problem?

btw, you guys are great. foolishly I got a new fuser BEFORE checking this site (and I really do know better). mine was the center leed on Q600! 'll take pictures there is enough space between the board and the leed that I could almost drive a bus through it. I'll take pictures and post them if I can for others.

- Andy Z
Thank you to all who have posted on this.

I had, notice the had, 2 8150's that were both having this issue. I've replaced the fusers and still came up with the error.

Got the parts in from HP, pop in the LVPS with ease and we are back in business.

Thanks!
by nova-cp on Jul 10, 2006 at 6:58am Add comment
If you can solder halfway decently, take the power supply out, removed the circuit board from the metal frame. Turn the board over, about halfway down on the back there will be 2-4 solder joints that have popped. Remove all of the old solder and resoder the connections and it should work. We repair our own with a 90\% success rate.
by Anonymous on Jul 20, 2006 at 1:51pm Add comment
Well, many thanks for the advice.

Took out the LVPS and sure enough there was the exact problem mentioned earlier. I re-soldered triad and put back together.

Guess what?

No joy! Same 50.1
Looks like a fuser is next.
Hope that does the trick.

by unknown on Jul 24, 2006 at 9:51am Add comment
I have HP LaserJet 8150 Printer don't star. the power supply is good I chek volt. i have wait time to star and power down. round 1 minut
by Anonymous on Jul 26, 2006 at 5:00am Add comment
Thanks for the help, guys. My 8150N came up today with an 80.1 code. Removed the fuser and check both heat elements and they were fine. Removed the power board and the center triac (FET?) drain pin had gotten so hot that not only did the solder melt away, but most of the copper land area! I ohmed the device and it was fine. Repaired the melted land area and reassembled. Now when I power it up, the control panel just blinks, no fans, nothing. I immediately powered off, and rechecked all connections and cables. Nothing found. Any ideas?

kid
by kidbyte on Aug 3, 2006 at 4:17pm Add comment
pardon the previous post. The error code I initially got was 50.1 NOT 80.1. Sorry.
by kidbyte on Aug 3, 2006 at 4:39pm Add comment
Following Stephen advised, I called HP Technical support and let them know about the error code 50.1 and advised them I had replaced the fuser assy and did not fix the problem, since there is a service note, HP will replace the LVPS for free.
by Saxon on Aug 11, 2006 at 6:31am Add comment
I have just installed a new fuser unit on Friday and it seemed to be working fine, although this morning there has been complaints that there is strong smell of burning rubber.

Is this normal or may there be an alternative reason?
by unknown on Aug 21, 2006 at 1:44am Add comment
I have just installed a new fuser unit on Friday and it seemed to be working fine, although this morning there has been complaints that there is strong smell of burning rubber.

Is this normal or may there be an alternative reason?
by unknown on Aug 21, 2006 at 1:57am Add comment
Burning smell is not normal.

It may be caused by the fuser you put in, or by the power supply.
by Stephen on Aug 21, 2006 at 7:45am Add comment
I am having a problem with a HP 8150N printing extremly light. It seems to be almost fading out on one side. I have replaced the toner and fuser with known good ones and I am still having the same problem. I have also verified all the printer setting with the other 8150 we have in the office. Does any one have any ideas?
by unknown on Sep 19, 2006 at 9:06am Add comment
try cleaning out the mirrors on the laser scanner.
by msr976 on Sep 19, 2006 at 12:50pm Add comment
Economode should be set to off. If it is try a half test by putting a sheet on the manual feeder on the right side and print a paper path test. Now when the back edge enters the printer, open the top toner door to stop the printing. Remove the toner cartrdige and move the drum flap back and look at the image on the drum. If the image is light, then it is optics or high voltage issue. If the image is dark, then you have a transfer roller issue. Sometimes one of the springs on the either end of the transfer roller clip falls down or comes loose and the transfer roller does not do its job.
by dmzcompute on Sep 19, 2006 at 2:32pm Add comment
I have this message:- 'Loading Program 1' whenever I switched on the printer HP 8150. How can I clear the message/error ? I've tried to clean up the NVRAM (no harddisk installed), but message is still there.
by unknown on Sep 27, 2006 at 2:37pm Add comment
My HP8150 prints only blank pages. I've changed th e toner cadrtridge, but the problem persists. I don't have any error messages.
by kkuli05 on Nov 14, 2006 at 11:58pm Add comment
There is a shutter mech which opens when the top cover is closed. If that mech is broken or not sitting right the shutter for the laser/scanner will not open and no image can be written to the drum of the toner cartridge. Remove the toner cartridge and look above where it sits for an opening which will be closed. It will marry up with the opening in the top of the toner cartrdige. Now remove the top cover which is not that hard. Pinch menu display and lift up with a little force and it will come loose. Remove the cable from it a put aside. Below the menu is one screw which you have to remove. Open the left side door and remove the two screws holding the top cover. Now in the back at the top where the hinge of the top cover is located is one additional screw. Last towards the front with the lid up is a beige or grey plastic clip which holds the spring loaded top tray. Pull it out and you can remove the tray. After that just lift the cover up and off. Now study the mech towards the rear of the printer which controls the shutter and see if it is working. Of course if the previous toner and this one were both new, it is possible the sealing tape was not removed from them.
by dmzcompute on Nov 15, 2006 at 5:15am Add comment
You can use a paper clip to keep the shutter open. The only thing about using a paper clip, the top cover is not engaing the shutter anymore. If I can't fix something onsite, a paper clip will normally do the trick in certain circumstances. This will get things going again until I get a part.
by msr976 on Nov 15, 2006 at 6:23am Add comment
You can use a paper clip to keep the shutter open. The only thing about using a paper clip, the top cover is not engaing the shutter anymore. If I can't fix something onsite, a paper clip will normally do the trick in certain circumstances. This will get things going again until I get a part.
by msr976 on Nov 15, 2006 at 6:24am Add comment
You can use a paper clip to keep the shutter open. The only thing about using a paper clip, the top cover is not engaing the shutter anymore. If I can't fix something onsite, a paper clip will normally do the trick in certain circumstances. This will get things going again until I get a part.
by msr976 on Nov 15, 2006 at 6:24am Add comment