dmzcompute

asked Oct 30, 2006 at 7:22pm
Hp HP LaserJet 2200D

HP Laserjet 2200D Laser/Scanner Error Fix

Just thought I would post these instructions since I was able to repair 2 laserjet 2200Ds during the past week using a method Moe had once mentioned. The symptons on the machines were a bit different but the error message was the same. When you sent a print document the machine would start to warm up and then all three light would come on solid. Pressing the job cancel and go buttons at the same time would result in only the middle led staying on solid which is a 52 laser/scanner error. In both case the motor in the laser/scanner was the culprit. With the cost of a new laser/scanner being about 200.00 it is really not economical to replace the part. What I did was the following. I removed the right side cover by pressing down on the button below the top cover and moving the cover towards the front and out. Next I lowered the back face up tray and released the two holding clips one on each side so the tray would go all the way down and removed the two screws which secures it to the frame. I then pulled out from the left side when looking from the rear and released the small clip on the right side and off it comes. I then removed the two screws one on each side in the back which secures the top cover. I next removed the two screws in the front under the toner door one on each side which hold the cover in the front. I then released the toner cam plastic piece on the right side which raises with the toner door. All you do is press together the plastic piece which goes thru the hole and slde the clip to the right and push it down into the down cover. Now just release the small holding clip on the left side under the toner door and you can lift the top cover off. Once the cover is off, you now have access to the laser/scanner which is the black box in the middle rear. Remove the multicolored wire on the right side from the circut board and release from the two clips on top of the laser/scanner and lay it over the left side. Now remove the purple wire connector from the same board which goes to the two wire harnesses on the laser scanner. Remove the one end of that same cable from the front right side connector on the top and release both parts of the wire from the holding clip on the top of the laser/scanner. Now remove the six black screws which hold the top of the laser/scanner cover and remove the cover. In the back of the laser/scanner is the motor assembly which the other part of the purple wire harness goes to. Remove the four screws which hold the motor and circut board and remove the motor and circut board. You may have to apply a bit of upward pressure to get it to come out, but it will come out. Now looking at the chrome motor cover at the bottom is a small plastic piece which holds the cover in place and prevents it from coming off. Squeeze the plastic piece together with a small needle nose pliers and remove. Now you can remove the motor cover and shaft. Put a couple of very small drops of synthetic oil down into the exposed shaft of the motor assembly. Just a little since you do not want to fill the shaft all the way to the top. Put the cover and shaft back and put the plastic holding piece back in place. While you have the top cover open you may want to use a q-tip to clean all the optics playing most attention to the mirror assembly in the front. Now reverse these instructions and put everything back together and hopefully you will be back in business. The only thing which can be tricky is the toner cam shaft plastic piece. The best way is to close the toner door and put the cover on all the way and then raise the right side of the top cover a bit and raise the plastic piece up so you can put the shaft of it into the hole of the cover hinge piece. I figure having 2 successes in one week is worth posting instructions. Let me know if it works for anyone out there.
Hi dmz,
Thank you for your suggestion. I tried to do this trick on a laser-scanner for LJ 1100 and it works!!! I'm not sure how long it'll work but now I'll start to collect a data and we'll see. I think, it'll work on most of laser-scanner for HP printers and in my experience, a 90\% of problems w/them is the laser motor problem.
Thanks again and Have a Good Day.
YP
by Ypshec on Oct 31, 2006 at 8:10am Add comment
I would just like to add something from experience. After you are done with the oil, the centrifical force will fling the oil out if you put too much on it. You might want to put a folded paper towel in front of the prism the first time you spin the scanner up. This will catch the oil that gets thrown out. I ruined a prism the first time I did one.
by moe on Oct 31, 2006 at 9:13am Add comment
I haven't got much experience fixing printers at this level so many thanks to the previous contributors, my 2200 now works also! It took me a few attempts before it worked properly, I think I applied the oil a bit scarecly.
On my first attempt the printer printed two test sheets fine but the motor was a bit noisy, it then gave up and the original problem came back.
On the second attempt after applying a little more oil it was then quiet but for some reason it didn't print anything but just fed the sheet all the way through.
On the third attempt after another little shot of oil and throughly cleaning the prisms, glass and laser it printed readable output but it also turned the entire sheet from white to dark gray, once I realised what was probably causing this and screwed all the covers and casing back on it printed fine!!!
Another tip is to clean out any dust and grime inside the printer before you open up the black box containing the laser motor as it might easily drift into the sensitive area, especially if it's as messy from a light industrial environment as my printer was.
by ajs1066 on May 16, 2007 at 6:27am Add comment
Wow! It worked for us, too! Putting camera/watch oil on the shaft of the laser scanner motor! When all three lights came on solid after it ran a bit as if to print but wouldn't, I could see on the EWS the printer had a 52 Scanner error, and the error light condition was just as Dzcompute described, except on the secondary error configuration (holding down both the Go and Cancel buttons) it was both the middle Ready light and the Attention light staying on. Thank you for this fix, this forum and the people who take the time to share their knowledge. Our HP Laserjet 2200d is back in business.
by nansiedou on Apr 29, 2008 at 12:31pm Add comment
Hi folk - Found this forum looking for this HP scanner motor error. I tend to try things myself and usually get pretty deep into it. So when I read your possible solution, I figure I'd try it.
First - mine is a Laserjet 1000 - close enough to the 1100. Took it apart no problem and got to the scanner motor. I think much easier than described for others. Took the scanner box assembly out similarly to described and got to the motor. Applied small amount of oil and put everything back together.
Unfortunately - no luck for me. Same error. Being that its so simple, I’m curious to find out what the scanner motor assembly costs. Might be worth a shot if it’s reasonable. I know these printer are cheap now – I found a similar Brother at Staples for $59. But I wouldn’t mind keeping this HP around – its been a good workhorse.
Thanks you for the suggested solution.
by sunnyorlando on Aug 1, 2008 at 3:47pm Add comment
You cannot just buy a scanner motor assembly as hp does not provide the part and you have to buy the complete laser/scanner which I am sure is more than a new printer.
by dmzcompute on Aug 1, 2008 at 6:41pm Add comment
FYI I'm a printer with 10 yrs experience. A new laser scanner assy can be purchased for aroune 130 dollers from governor business solutions 313-240-8333 part number is rg5-5591. Your fixes are fine but will not last for long Ive tried it is good for getting a customer running till the part comes in though
by Anonymous on Sep 4, 2008 at 7:58am Add comment
To anonymous you do not know what you are talking about. The printer next to my computer here is a 2200 that I fixed 2 years ago and it has printed over 10K pages since then without issue. All the customers I have fixed with this method over the past years have working printers without replacing the laser/scanner. Since the laser/scanner assembly cost almost as much as a new printer, customers like this fix. I see why you posted anonymously since I would not want to put my name to that post.
by dmzcompute on Sep 4, 2008 at 4:12pm Add comment
I agree with dmz. I've never had to go back and replace a scanner assy. and I've been doing the repair for 3 or 4 years. I think I'm the one who innovated it.
by moe on Sep 4, 2008 at 5:01pm Add comment
after all that work would it be easier just to replace the assembly.
by carl7990 on Sep 5, 2008 at 11:55am Add comment
It's not that much more work to open and lube it than replacing the assy. I think 5 minutes of time is worth the $100 the assy. costs to replace.
by moe on Sep 5, 2008 at 12:38pm Add comment
My printer would not paper feed although normall motors starting was present. Eventually the printer timed out with all lights on and no paper fed into printer. I followed procedure to oil laser/scanner motor and hey presto all worked well. Brilliant many thanks for posting the detailed procedure to oil motor.
by unknown on Sep 28, 2008 at 9:40am Add comment
Thanks dmz for the detailed instructions, and to moe for the idea. We had an hp2200dtn that refused to pick up paper and was displaying a scan motor error. This fixed the problem, at least initially. Who would have thought a couple drops of oil would make the difference.

thanks again!!
by wightlight on Jan 12, 2009 at 10:56am Add comment
I gave this fix a try and it didn't work for me. The motor seemed stiff for such a little motor.

However, I couldn't perform part of the instructions. This part

"squeeze the plastic piece together with a small needle nose pliers and remove. Now you can remove the motor cover and shaft. "

If the plastic part is a peg that you must squeeze together to get it to slide out of a slot - then I got that done.

However, there was nothing on the motor assemble that then became moveable or shiftable. What part is supposed to move?

The very bottom part of the motor that the "peg" looked like it retained does not move.

On the very top of the motor there seems to be a lock ring and a very stiff "wavey" washer. If I had to guess I would have to remove that lock ring to get anywhere "inside" the motor assembly. I used a very fine wire to apply oil through that wavey washer onto the center post.

Is it possible I have an updated assembly or am I totally missing something?

Manufacture date is May 2002.

Thanks for any help,
D.
by unknown on Jun 18, 2009 at 7:47pm Add comment
You are making a simple job complex. The motor shaft is attached to the chrome round item that has the ring at the top. If you removed the locking peg then that piece will lift straight up and out and the hole that it came out of is the hole you put the small drop of oii. That round chrome piece should turn but with the error it will be tight but still should move and that is the item that is not moving and giving the error. Since about 50 people I know of have fixed it with the instructions provided it should not be that difficult.
by dmzcompute on Jun 18, 2009 at 8:18pm Add comment
Success!!!

I'm not really making it complex - its more my lack of familiarity combined with a natural caution not to break small, electronic parts.

I would never expect to have to put that much force on it - but it came off - I guess the suction of the cup that the shaft sits in is probably part of the reason its a tough pull. Also - since I am not familiar with these motors I was looking for a motor cover - when you are doing it correctly, it looks like you are going to pull off the entire motor.

One other thing. I added some oil and it spun better, but not freely. I didn't know how free it should be. I decided to try some molybdenum grease we have for Radio Control cars. When I added it, I worked the shaft up and down to spread it along the length of the shaft. It spun very freely - doing about 4-7 free spins after giving it a spin. I think the very small tolerances between the shaft and its seating cup mean that even lubricant may be challenged to move around much - after it's together the spinning done before failure may not be enough. I noticed some others had to apply lubricant more than once - so maybe this type of lubricant and/or the working of the shaft up and down would help.

My printer had 95,305 pages on it when this happened - pretty low for the manufacturer's stated duty cycle of 40K/month.

Thanks very much for this page,
D.
by unknown on Jun 18, 2009 at 9:53pm Add comment
Thanks, dmzcompute. You saved a perfectly good laserprinter from getting trashed!
by Anonymous on Aug 16, 2009 at 3:50am Add comment
Thanks dmzcompute. This fix saved me a lot of money. I've only printed 5 sheets since the fix, but it seems to be working great.
by Anonymous on Nov 20, 2009 at 5:41pm Add comment
I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to write this up. I have a 2200D that this error just came up and your trick fixed it.

Thanks again.
by unknown on Mar 10, 2010 at 4:52pm Add comment
Hey guys!

Thx for the very detailed repair instructions!

The motor in my 2200d was totaly stuck. So, like djsdjs, I first didn't expeckt to get it off. Because of that, I applied a very tiny drop of WD-40 at the top end of the shaft - much later I read that petroleum based oil is a bad choise ...
But it helped, and after a few turns it became free and I realised how to get the motor appart and applied some oil at the bottom shaft.
After reassembling the scanner motor, the printer was working just fine.
But since this morning, when I wanted to print a page, it doesn't want to work any more! Errorcode is the same as before: attention + ready light.
The difference is, that now the scanner motor is spinnig like cracy .. maybe too much?

I hope someone can help!
by unknown on May 5, 2010 at 8:49am Add comment
Terrific!

What a helpful job this was to have detailed instructions to stop the noise that my printer was making. Better instructions and information that HP had about this issue.
by jblumenthal on May 10, 2010 at 8:55am Add comment
great instructions so far, thanks a lot! after going thru all the steps and re-assembling, the darn thing won't power on anymore. I'm going to re-check everything, it's possible I just missed a wire or something... Any advice? either way, thanks for the great post.
by unknown on Aug 9, 2010 at 11:58am Add comment
If all you took loose was the scanner portion, it wouldn't have any effect on the power. Of course, some people aren't as gentle taking it apart as other people are. I've seen the results, so I know of what I speak. So, not having watched what you did, and not able to see the printer, just look at whatever you messed with or whatever is near by and make sure it's all plugged in.
by moe on Aug 9, 2010 at 12:19pm Add comment
Make sure the power switch on the left side is pressed in.
by dmzcompute on Aug 9, 2010 at 2:29pm Add comment
I actually had a guy come in once complaining his 2200 didn't work. I pushed in the power switch and it came to life. He had no idea that the printer had a power switch. I usually don't suggest something that basic, maybe I should start. I just thought that one guy was an aberration.
by moe on Aug 9, 2010 at 3:03pm Add comment
well it's not the power switch (could you image getting this far and missing that?) and double-checking all the connections hasn't helped... could be I'm "not as gentle" as moe suspects... one clue is that when we try to power it on we hear a very quiet "click" somewhere inside, like maybe something is trying to start but failing... maybe I tripped an interlock switch on the inside somewhere? i'm giving up for today, but if any more interesting suggestions pop up here, I might open 'er up again tomorrow.
by unknown on Aug 9, 2010 at 3:25pm Add comment
Any lights on at all.
by dmzcompute on Aug 9, 2010 at 6:44pm Add comment
no lights on at all
by unknown on Aug 10, 2010 at 7:22am Add comment
4 years after the topic start still a great fix! Worked for me, Thanks!
by unknown on Oct 25, 2010 at 6:03am Add comment
Thanks for the writeup. My printer finally died due to this (it was 10 years old and the page count was around 35,000).

In my case, I also removed the 4 screws holding the whole scanner assembly. A plastic plate on the back was held on by one screw and some tabs. This exposed a small piece of the back of the motor. I was able to push on that to push the motor out (it's a tight fit between the plastic and that portion of the motor sticking out the back).

The motor cover and shaft was very hard to turn. Once I removed it and replaced it, even without adding any oil, it became much easier to turn. I think that there was still oil in the bottom and removing the shaft allowed it to redistribute. I added a very small drop of light machine oil just for good measure.

I'd recommend not using bare fingers to remove the motor cover so you don't get fingerprints on the flat sides of the spinning portion.

Everything worked once I remembered to plug all of the various wires and stuff back in....
by dhylands on Nov 10, 2010 at 12:07am Add comment
Thanks a lot! Fixed the problem for me as well. I was somewhat intimdated by the instructions but followed them and wasn't that complicated. Doing it again now would be very easy without even needing the instructions.

Only problem now is that the jetdirect card no longer works, not sure what happened.. But I've plugged it directly to a PC (shared for another one to use as well) with a USB cable instead.
by unknown on Dec 21, 2010 at 8:11am Add comment
There are threads that detail how to bake the JetDirect card. Do a forum search. - moe
Thanks! Even if five years later you may not read this...

It worked very well!

Cheers :)
by ladedah on May 9, 2011 at 10:21am Add comment
This fixed my problem. Thanks for taking the time to share.
by unknown on Jun 19, 2011 at 12:29pm Add comment
This repair of the Laser Scanner motor worked! As one of the threads above mentioned, I also could not find a plastic ring to loosen with a needle nose pliers. I figured my printer must be an older/newer model. I saw the white plastic nubby sticking up and just pushed it aside. Then the motor easily lifted up. I could not remove the circuit board no matter how hard I tried. It began to bend, so I stopped so that I wouldn't break it!! I concluded it must be attached from underneath the assembly. Again, one of the threads above mentioned this. Of course, I didn't read those threads until AFTER I fixed it. . . But did the repair correctly anyway. I used a drop of sewing machine oil. I lightly coated the capstan with oil before replacing it. The printer still makes a bit of a whining noise, but maybe that will dissapear with more use. THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS INFO. A PERFECTLY GOOD PRINTER WAS SAVED--AND A VERY FINANCIALLY CHALLENGED PRINTER USER WAS SPARED THE EXPENSE OF A NEW PRINTER!!
by lcorinth on Sep 1, 2011 at 9:45am Add comment
Comment from my husbond after I explained how I fixed our printer: "that must be a VERY good description!" Afraid that I have a history of taking things apart and not being able to assemble again - but the printer is now working perfectly!
by unknown on Oct 8, 2011 at 1:47am Add comment
I am glad to find this forum, lots of good information. Today I replaced the laser scanner assembly with a refurbished unit - $85.
(Did not read this forum first, shame on me.}

The printer works, but is making light gray bands across the page at regular intervals, just barely visible. Is this related to the scanner replacement? I wonder if there is an alignment process that needs to be done? There is some slop in the mounting holes. Any advice?
by unknown on Oct 27, 2011 at 2:24pm Add comment
If you understand how a scanner works, you'd see that it would be impossible for it to create bands. The things a scanner will do is create white lines. Overall fading. Fading on one side.
Light gray bands would most likely be caused by the toner cartridge.
by moe on Oct 27, 2011 at 3:46pm Add comment
Much appreciated, Moe. Thanks. - unknown
my printer was showing the same msg as every1,52 error..it took me 2 days to fix the problem bt it was the most effective way ever...i just switched my printer off for abt 2 days and wn i switched it on "there my printer ws working again", and its still work'g..you can all try it, it works
by unknown on Jan 31, 2012 at 5:35am Add comment
It worked for me to take apart the Laser Scanner and grease the motor. It was really easy to do also. Just follow the directions. They are really well written!!! If this didn't work we were going to scrap the printer!
by unknown on Mar 1, 2012 at 7:12am Add comment
Finished this 10 minutes ago. Couldn't find the "ring", then I saw the 'plastic nubby'. Saved myself ~80 bucks, thank you!
by unknown on Apr 23, 2012 at 7:27pm Add comment
Awesome! Had that annoying 52 SCANNER ERROR as well. Luckily, found this guide and have it a shot! Success!

Gotta say though, the description makes it seem REALLY hard. All there is are a couple of screws to remove. Took me less than 10 minutes, where most of the time was spent trying to decipher the instructions. :-p

BTW: had roughly 99000 pages print with my unit. Now it goes on strong. :D Thanks again!
by unknown on May 26, 2012 at 4:00am Add comment
Hi, I have a problem with my Laserjet 2200D. Whenever I print HPLaserjet 2200 PS, I used to see some lines are missing, may be not reading postcript fonts, but when I print PCL everything is ok. But I badly depnd PS printing option. If I format the system, everything will be fine. But I can't do every time. Their are so many links, fonts, softwares etc. Can you help me out.
Varadarajan A.v.
by unknown on Jun 7, 2012 at 1:34am Add comment
I am amazed that this thread continues so long after the original post date! I'm in the process of duplicating these efforts on a DN. Everything came apart precisely as described. Upon removal of the scanner motor assembly, I found the motor spinning nicely, but still disassembled it as described and oiled with a precision light synthetic oil.

My question to the forum: where can I find a description of the error numbers, lights, codes, and such? I have printer parts all over the place and if there's a way to further assess where the problem(s) are before reassembling 'just to test', I'd sure like to hear about it, but I suspect that operating the printer without all the interlocks and such engaged is not easily accomplished.

I also see two small buttons on the light board, but have done nothing with them as yet.

Thanks bunches to those who have posted over the years; simply amazing. I am also interested in doing a thorough paper-path cleaning.

Regards,
EMTech
by EMTech on Aug 9, 2012 at 3:31pm Add comment
Update to earlier post:
Performed the motor lube and printer failed to print. In this case, the problem is not this. The service manual identifies the three lights that are continuously lit as (1.) bad connection to the EIO card (which is not present in this model), or (2.) an irrecoverable error. Following the instructions returns the printer to 'ready' state, but pressing 'Go' to obtain a printout causes the machine to spin up, like it's ready to print, then a click and then all three lights illuminate and stay on.

Status log codes and error messages are something I've still not read how to determine. Would appreciate input. Machine is quite clean.
by EMTech on Aug 9, 2012 at 6:45pm Add comment
You need to press the job cancel and go buttons at the same time and the error message should change. Report back the new light pattern and someone will tell you what is wrong. The motor error is the top two lights on solid when you press both buttons after all 3 lights on solid. If that is the error you get, then the whole scanner will need to be replaced. If another light pattern let us know and we will tell you what is wrong. If you press both buttons and the light pattern does not change but stays at all 3 lights on solid, then the issue is the formatter. Just make sure both buttons are working.
by unknown on Aug 11, 2012 at 2:12pm Add comment
dmzcompue:
Thanks for the comment. From cold start, plug in, turn on, printer lights cycle, then stop at green-only(ready). Following your suggestion: press both buttons simultaneously and release. Printer lights cycled, stopped with all three lit. Buttons work fine; no intermittents. I am confused on 'error messages'; printer is sitting on a workbench, plugged into power only; 'where' am I looking for error messages, and what am I looking 'for'? Someone else mentioned they'd discovered their printer had over 150k pages run through it; how was that determined? While this machine looks quite clean and in good condition, it's 11 years old. Is it worth repairing? I have a straight 2200 that's working beautifully, but I wonder how long it'll run... Thanks. I also have a 2100 that was working fine 3 yers ago when I placed it in storage in a climate controlled room, but now it's all goofy too. EMTech
by EMTech on Aug 11, 2012 at 6:44pm Add comment
Error messages on this printer are the lights. Depending on what lights are on and whether they are blinking or solid tells us what is wrong. I thought I made that clear in my post. When you get all 3 lights on solid and only when you get 3 lights on solid, you press both buttons at the same time and the light pattern will probably change as long as both buttons are pressed down. Report the new light pattern. In other words when the printer comes to ready with the one light on, press the big button for a couple of seconds and release which should make the printer try to print a sample page and if all 3 lights come on solid then press both buttons at the same time.
by dmzcompute on Aug 12, 2012 at 7:39pm Add comment
You explained it fine. I did what you advised. When I turn it on, after the self-check, the single, green, ready lamp comes on. If I press the big 'print' button, the machine winds up like other folks have detailed, sounding like it's about to print, but no paper feeds, and all 3 lamps come on. I wrote that earlier, on 08/09. Then, if I press both buttons and release them, they cycle and stop with all three lights on. I wrote that on 08/11. I did this again, while writing this, and pressing both buttons simultaneously causes the orange alert lamp goes out, and when I release the buttons, it comes back on, leaving all three on. I have been unable to repeat the earlier sequence where I pressed both buttons and got them to cycle.
by EMTech on Aug 12, 2012 at 9:26pm Add comment
No where did you tell us the orange light goes out when you press both button until now. That is what we were after. Your issue is not the laser/scanner but the fuser. The error is a fuser error and the fuser will need to be replaced.
by dmzcompute on Aug 13, 2012 at 5:04am Add comment
I see. I mentioned that 'all three' lights stayed on in both my 08/09, 6:45pm post, and my 08/11, 6:44pm post, but 'not' that the orange LED went out and came right back on. I misunderstood the inquiry, thinking you wanted to know what the lights were 'after' the machine settled down. Mea culpa. Thanks for bearing with me until we figured it out! Great! I am learning, thanks to your patience.

The next questions are...
a.) How much will a new fuser unit cost?
b.) How may I determine how much life is left in the machine, which will then help determine whether the cost is worth it... as in, how likely is it that something else major would fail?
c.) Where would be the best and MOST economical source for an OEM part? I have been unemployed for an extended time, and while I remain looking, funds are in short supply, but the wife is writing a book and I must support that effort with printing capabilities.

Thanks! Much obliged!
by EMTech on Aug 13, 2012 at 9:09am Add comment
I do not know the cost but you can contact metrofuser.com which sells re-manufactured fusers at a fair price. No way to tell your printers status since you are unable to print a config page which will tell you how many copies have been printed. If you get a replacement fuser you can then press both the back and front buttons at the same time with the printer at ready and it will print a config page which will give you lots of information. I am still using my 2200 and it has over 150K on it.
by dmzcompute on Aug 13, 2012 at 7:01pm Add comment
Thanks! I will visit them and see.
This is good news.
Here's another 'possible' angle to resolving this:

I have a 2100 that 'was' working acceptably a couple years ago when I put it in a box and stored it in an environmentally-controlled room. It printed some lines on the borders and upon inspection of the toner cartridge, the lines appeared to originate there. I went to try it the other day and paper feeds but repeatedly jams horribly, at the rear, where it changes direction; perhaps something in the paper-handling area, but it is otherwise trying to print, and also has some 'divot-looking' impressions in the margins. Is it possible that the 2100 fuser would work in the 2200dn? If so, I could cannibalize that one to keep this one working, or at least try, unless you think it would be more profitable to restore the 2100. - EMTech
No they are different.
by dmzcompute on Aug 14, 2012 at 5:34am Add comment
dmzcompute, or whoever wishes to tackle this one...
Continuing with the above, I took the fuser apart and found the resistive reading on the temperature sensor appeared open; (2 small, teflon-jacketed wires.) Balance of the fuser looked 'very' good; roller, sleeve, etc. I scrounged another 2200dn, took him apart and found some damage, but the sensor appeared good, so I swapped it out. Also cleaned out as much of the silicone grease from this unit to put into the one I'm trying to restore, then rebuilt the assembly. The internal core assembly in the scrounged unit, within the sleeve, may also be good. Decent readings on parts.

The printer came up nicely and went to 'ready' mode. I got a beautiful, perfect duplex printout, but after printing, all 3 LEDs lit up and stayed lit. I cycled power, whereupon it came up ready, then I printed another one, again, perfect, but went into failure mode again. Yet another power cycle, and I printed a self-test/configuration page, following which, the 2200 went into error mode again.

Interestingly, no serial number printed, and the page count is only 4. Apparently something dumped the memory. Maybe this happens when the fuser is pulled out. Maybe it has other, systemic problems.

Otherwise, there is enough to suggest the printer may be worth repairing, but I need some help to assess what it wrong with it. Again.

There appears to be two temperature-sensing devices, one on the backside of the ceramic heating element, and the other inside the steel form inside the teflon sleeve. Anyone have anything to say about these and what they do?

Thanks.
by EMTech on Sep 17, 2012 at 5:50pm Add comment
I think you are wasting a lot of time. As I said the fusers are different and the error you are getting is probably being caused by your "reworked" fuser. The difference in page count is probably due to at one time holding the buttons down to long for a cold reset and in effect performed a NVRAM reset which reset everything back to 0 and removed the serial number. A rebuilt fuser for this unit should cost less then 40.00.
by dmzcompute on Sep 18, 2012 at 5:24am Add comment
After nearly three and a half years of seeking employment, I remain jobless. In my area, it seems no one wants anyone to do anything; everyone seems to be waiting on the election or some other excuse. Funds are tight to nonexistent. $40 is a lot of denarii when there is no income, and I have been looking around the area for reputable printer repair houses in an effort to make some kind of arrangement.

Thanks for your concern about "wasting my time", but time is not an issue; money is, so I must do what I can with what I have. I'm happy I got anything out of it; that was an encouraging treat and says I'm on the right path. Thanks for your past help; I appreciate it and never meant to be an irritation. I will seek further diagnostics and repair assistance elsewhere, or just let all four of these go to the dump. Thanks again.
by EMTech on Sep 18, 2012 at 9:56am Add comment
Never seen a fuser in that model do that. Therefore, I have to assume it's a user input problem. There are 2 devices in the fuser that deal with temperature. One monitors the temperature, reports it to the DC controller and thus serves as a temperature regulator. The other is a thermal fuse that cuts power to the fuser when it overtemps. I'm thinking you didn't get i put back together just right and it is reporting temperature errors that are causing the lights to come on.
by moe on Sep 18, 2012 at 11:02am Add comment
Hi Moe.
Sorry for delay.
Actually, there are two thermocouples/thermistors in the fuser core. One is on the rear of the ceramic heating element, the other is on something of a 'spring-loaded', arrangement. The 'bullet-shaped' device to which you refer is indeed a thermal fuse, and it's fine. My swag is that one TC is employed to control temperature by controlling voltage to the heater, and the other one reports to the processor what the temp really is. Can you verify this?

Both thermistor devices are well out of spec, at ~317k-ohms, as opposed to the specified 350k-ohms min. My suspicion is, with these devices being so far out, this is the actual problem. I have seen others try to locate the 'spring-loaded' component to no avail. It can be removed; I've done many dozens of things of this type, but it takes real finesse and some special tools to remove the retainer nuts without damaging either them or the glass-filled plastic pins.

By the way, after an exhaustive search, I located an outfit up in Wisconsin that builds/rebuilds all sorts of printer components, sells them at decent prices, and they include a warranty. They claim, and I verified with HP, that they are indeed a business partner of HP. Check them out at http://www.laserpros.com/

At the encouragement of the tech at LPI, I used the working fuser from my 2200 to 'prove' the fuser was the issue in the 2200dn, and that fixed it. I had been extremely hesitant to do this because it is our only working printer, and we are writing a book.

Now it's a matter of coming up with the dough for the fuser. Now that I know it'll work fine, I will overhaul the rest of the machine and clean it up, re-lubricating the gear train with a synthetic grease that's totally safe for all plastics.

And, for those who don't know, if you buy something with your AmEWx card(perhaps others, but I don't know), Amex will double the manufacturer's warranty up to one year. So if the LPI fuser has a 6-month warranty, it'll have a 1-year warranty.

Another tip: if someone wants to oil the scanner motor shaft, I suggest they use a synthetic oil, not petroleum, and use sparingly. There needs to be a tad on the shaft, and a little in the bottom reservoir well, but no more. As another poster noted, too much and you will have oil all over the optics; good luck cleaning that up.

Thanks guys; I appreciate your patience. I learned a lot in the process of dealing with this.

EMTech / Rich
by EMTech on Sep 22, 2012 at 11:03am Add comment
i just now used these instructions, after doing a second search- as the directions i found on fixya were not detailed enough and these directions here were PERFECT. thank you. printer is working now :)
by unknown on Nov 20, 2012 at 8:22pm Add comment
I'm happy you found the information helpful!
While I'm no printer mechanic by trade, most of my career has been involved with very precision devices, and I have a slew of tools most have no idea even exist. I have made many dozens of special tools from paperclips, coat-hangers, and custom-modified pliers. It's all a matter of how badly you need to fix something and how creative you are. Is there anything else I can help you with?

BTW, the synthetic oil I used is a full-synthetic product of Nye Lubricants... called NyOil II(2). - EMTech
Hi Guys

The shared info and repair manual on this site helped me to repair an HP 2200DTN that started making weird noises instead of feeding paper. The bearing of the formatter motor was not sticky at all and could be spun for a quite few revolutions.

I nevertheless applied a 1/4 drop of oil as instructed (SAE 90 meant for use in pneumatic motors) and voila the printer now works fine business. It is amazing what a small drop of oil in the right place can make!

Thanks for the help, it is highly appreciated here in Sunny South Africa.
by PinePien on Nov 24, 2012 at 3:51am Add comment
7 years after your great post still helps people! Thanx!
Just my tuppence: DO NOT use molybdenum grease. With spinning, the grease gets thick and, in my case, almost burned the motor. It took me a couple of tries before I realized the grease was the culprit - some engine (0W40) did the trick however, and as I write, the printer is happily spouting pages :)

This series of printers are the best you can get: The technology is mature, knock-off toner is dirty cheap, and they're virtually indestructible!

Thanx again,
p.
by unknown on Jan 31, 2014 at 11:32am Add comment
Past another year and your posting hits again! My beloved laserjet 2200dn is back to life thanks to you! My suggests: to extract the motor gently move the ic board enough so to turn it very gently *many* times. Just one drop oil for mine seen enough. Grab motor by its bronze top is ok.
thanks again! you should ask 5$ for each printer..
by unknown on Dec 26, 2014 at 8:40am Add comment
My my... the day after Christmas and folks are fixing vintage printers. If it's to me these comments are directed, thanks, but I don't want credit for something I haven't done. Due largely to inactivity, both my 2200 printers need work, and as soon as I have an income, I'll tackle them. This is definitely the forum to post to. Merry Christmas, techhies! EMTech/Rich
by EMTech on Dec 26, 2014 at 8:58am Add comment
Hey I do want credit. Go to the first post which was mine over 2 years ago. Just kidding, credit not necessary. Happy to see my instructions are still working. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all.
by dmzcompute on Dec 26, 2014 at 8:49pm Add comment
My printer is HP Laserjet M1212nf MFP. I was very nervous about these instructions but when the 52.0 Scanner error wasn't going away, I decided to dismantle the printer by opening the screws; 4 on top, 2 hidden upside down the cover, and 2 others behind - a little over the scanner glass.

And then I opened, I blew air from the mouth, cleaned around with a shaving spirit with a smooth towel, and used my bio oil (Cosmetic) to wet the [cogs, gears and the scanner teeth). I was inspired by this youtube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAx2RZWmY_c and also this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGLYd1OeEyI

Be very careful because of the dramatic way the cover jumps up when you that button is pressed.

It worked perfectly aftrer. I can't believe that techie guy wanted all that money to repair it.

by unknown on Jun 23, 2015 at 2:47pm Add comment
I was not going to post but after looking at the you tube video I have to. Do not follow the directions of the video. Person doing that has no idea what he is doing. You do not clean pickup rollers with alcohol. It only drys them out and makes them worse. Either replace or use rubber rejuvenating fluid. As to the scanner error for the person above he is just lucky. He did not fix the laser/scanner since there are no gears. His error is for the laser/scanner which is below the scanning assembly on his printer. Nothing to do with the scanner used to copy, etc. Scanner error for that problem are always below 10. My hunch is his error will come back again. Just my two cents.
by dmzcompute on Jun 23, 2015 at 7:15pm Add comment