asked Mar 4, 2007 at 9:33am
Canon Canon FC 1

Waste Ink Absorber replacement on iP2000 inkjet

I have an ip2000 inkjet which is printing perfectly except for the message "waste ink absorber is almost full".

It would appear this is a problem with many of your visitors who have Canon printers but I haven't seen one relating to the ip2000.

Could someone please let me know: -

1. Where is the waste ink absorber in the printer and how do I get to it?

2. As Canon told me they no longer supply them for this printer, is it possible to clean the existing one and re-use?

3. How do I then reset the counter as it is clear this is going to cause the printer to stop working shortly.

Problem is I have purchased lots of black and colour ink cartridges.

Would appeciate someone's assistance.

Many thanks in advance.
I have an ip2000 inkjet which is printing perfectly except for the message "waste ink absorber is full. cont.your service provider".

by Anonymous on Mar 14, 2007 at 11:33pm Add comment
This is such an inexpensive printer way waste the effort. Plus without changing the blotters, your doomed to ink running out of it eventually without warning but ok here is the reset instructions. Good luck and incidently this should be performed only by a Canon authorized tech as other steps are usually performed in testing the printer.

1) With the printer powered off, hold down the resume button and press the power button.
2) While holding down the power button, release the resume button and press the resume button twice in succession. Now release the power button. The indicator will blink in green and remain lit in green.
Now press the resume button 4 times and then the power button, voila you just reset the waste ink counter. Good luck and hope it doesn't come back to haunt you! And be happy, you just took food out off some trained tech's table.
by BAB on Mar 18, 2007 at 6:46am Add comment

So far so good.

Followed your instructions. Few noises off and now lights are green - no flashing orange. Haven't yet tried to print though as I don't want to lose this page yet. - Anonymous
I followed your instructions and the orange light stopped blinking, however, I've lost the ability to access any maintenance functions in my print utility. When I click "maintenance," nothing happens. I suspect I've reset something I shouldn't have.

Pleaes advise.


- kimnjerry
I'd like to know how to change blotters, etc.

It may be an inexpensive printer, but it performs well and ink is far less costly than for more recent printers. - kimnjerry
Thank you! Worked a treat. Appreciate you sharing your expertise. - weereilly
I have tried your suggestion and yes it worked. for a time, now the light is showing again...

can you please tell me how to get to the pads? where does the excess drain off to? what exactly is the waste ink absorber?


- wolfie40
thanks worked just like a charm, who cares if a tech looses some money, they are overpaid anyways, $50 an hour to fix a $75 printer?
by unknown on Jun 3, 2007 at 2:28pm Add comment
Thank you to the person that wrote how to re-set the waste ink absorber.
It's worked for me! (the resume button being the second one down of the three)
by unknown on May 20, 2009 at 2:21am Add comment
I followed the instructions green light stopped flashing as said it would but now it won't print at all, keeps saying printer is off line.

Any suggestions please.

by Anonymous on May 14, 2010 at 8:58am Add comment
I just tried it and its worked for me. The first time I tried to print. The computer kept saying the printer was offline. I turned the printer off and on again and now its printing again!
by unknown on Jul 20, 2010 at 2:19pm Add comment
Be very careful with those units. They are not designed to have the blotters replaced and if your just resetting the ink counter, the blotter area may overflow eventually and you'll have ink every where.
You could try to open them and make blotters from a blotter pak we might recommend but we usually don't try to open those guys because Canon has made it more difficult then time allows us to do the job and make any money at it.

Canon Tech
by BAB on Jul 21, 2010 at 9:02am Add comment
So what happens when they are full, beside resetting them I mean?? Do I just throw the printer out the window and buy another CANON???
by dave1 on Aug 21, 2010 at 7:56am Add comment
the instructions on re-setting the printer are very helpful. A few people now have asked how to get to the waste ink absorber and either clean it or replace it with a home-made blotter. I can't see any response, though, from anyone on how to do this (other than to say it's time-consuming . . . but without saying how to do it). Does anyone know? An urgent answer would be fantastic. Thanks.
by PeterHCL on May 7, 2011 at 12:35am Add comment
We have just removed the outer cover and cleaned the absorber pads which are to the right just under the cartridges - it was a bit tricky and extremely messy, I suggest wearing gloves! We are about to reconnect the printer and reset as suggested by BAB earlier, here goes.... oh oh! we are getting the offline message, so will now turn off and on again. Hurrah! finally it's working again.

A big thanks to all who posted suggestions.
by unknown on Aug 31, 2011 at 3:58am Add comment
Thanks for the info on resetting the printer,I had to turn it off and on again after resetting but everything worked ok, I am hoping that it won't overflow before I use the 2 new cartridges I have in stock, then it will be a new printer, this one has been brilliant and will be sorry to see it retire.
Thanks everyone
by unknown on Dec 13, 2011 at 5:08pm Add comment
This is a great printer, and I have mine serviced by Canon once a year for $130. That's a small price to pay, considering my new generic cartridges only cost me ±$2.00 each.
by kimnjerry on Dec 16, 2011 at 1:05pm Add comment
I also got a message on my printer saying the waste ink absorber was almost full.
I took Will trying's advice, I removed the printer cover located the waste ink absorber on the right hand side under the ink cartridges. I have cleaned the waste ink absorber pads, put the cover back on and did not even have to reset the waste ink counter the green light is on no flashing orange light.
And voila the printer is now working like a dream

Thank you Will trying

P.S. have to say Im a gal not a guy
by unknown on Feb 5, 2013 at 12:47am Add comment
Well, I was reading this page and there are some good advice on how to #Reset# the Printer, but there is nothing one the matter of opening and washing or replacing the waste ink absorber! Not here, and not over the internet. Could someone PLEASE tell me or share me the images of how this thing REALLY LOOKS LIKE?! I really wanna get my hands dirty and fix this thing!
Thank you very much in advance.
by acuriousfriend on Feb 11, 2014 at 3:07am Add comment

A Procedure to physically clean the ink absorber on the ip2000--

Note: This is a DIY procedure -- It was a welcome challenge and like others, had several spare ink cartridges -- that did not want to become more waste along with the printer. As mentioned elsewhere, this printer model apparently was not made to have the absorbers removed and maintained by the user and only with considerable effort by a technician. One could say that it was engineered to eventually fail (even supplying the programmed warning message). Believe it is one of the best printers ever made (before the failure) for it's time and left plenty of room for improvement in the ink absorber area. Believe some of the newer models have made improvement in the absorber design and maintenance. Enough said about that.

This is believed to be a workable solution. As someone said -- perform at your own risk. As a another has said -- 'can't make it any worse' --

This covers cleaning the print head module, the ink docking area and the absorber pads. Plan on this taking hours or more and less than a week, and maybe less than one day if this writing is of any help and if you have great facilities.

Part 1 of 3.

Some supplies/tools: two flat blade screwdrivers, a philips screwdriver, about 100 cotton swabs, some wooden toothpicks for finer cleaning, rubbing alcohol, small ~3 oz bathroom cup or the top from a (soda) bottle to hold some alcohol. Also useful are needle nose pliers with side cutter (useful to cut dirty end off cotton swab into trash, to handle and use the other end), pair of tweezers, relatively snug fitting gloves (latex or nitrile are good), small, long-needle nose pliers to handle springs, a lid from some old jar to hold screws, small parts, ~ two old pans or containers for cleaning pieces and parts. A fine permanent marker and a few other things to be mentioned later. Also useful: A camera to document any areas you wish prior to or during dis-assembly and especially the ink cartridge docking area to right of print area, a vacuum for cleaning dust from inside printer if needed, and Some sort of Waste basket with plastic liner for waste.

1. Go through a standard start-up cycle and open the printer lid to bring out the ink cartridges. Remove the cartridges. These can be loosely wrapped in kitchen plastic wrap to help prevent drying out and laid on their side for several days if needed. Disconnect power and cable(s). Move printer and power cable to a work area lined with paper.

Partial disassembly:
2. First remove the two darker plastic sides using a flat blade screwdriver starting at right side. Setting the printer on it's left side. Generally the clips can be compressed with the blade and then pried slightly to release clips one at a time until the whole piece is free. The left cover is a little tougher. There is a clip at the back, top about 1" from the corner that broke in one attempt -- the side will still hold on without it if this happens when re-assembled.

3. After these two side panels, set back of printer on table. Next remove the front left small panel -- believe there are 3-4 clips (left side, bottom, right inside). You may need to play with the opening angle of the front dark cover to get the best access to and release of the side.

4. Next is the dark front cover. Start with the cover ajar (not clipped shut). With the printer still sitting on it's back and the bottom facing you, pry from the printer case on the left hinged area of the cover while pulling this area to release the left side. The cover is ABS unlike the others PS (polystyrene) and is tougher to allow some flex when prying. Now open cover about halfway to clear it's switch arm on the right side. The whole cover will then be loose and can be pulled away from the right hinged area.

5. Now continue to the smaller right front cover that contains the front switch buttons. Perform a similar procedure as was done for the left side except that the cable harness for the buttons will keep it dangling though it will be free from the printer body except for the wires. Be careful now when moving or repositioning printer from this point on to not stress/damage the wiring harness.

6. Next comes the main cover. Set printer in normal position (bottom down). Remove two screws, one at the left and one at the right of the print area (screws face up). These are the only two screws that hold the cover on. The remaining attach points - 4 plastic clips at back and sides. Believe all these points have slots and arrows molded near them as indicators. Using two flat blade screwdrivers release one rear corner at a time. Then the whole top case cover can be lifted up and away.
(end of part 1)
by IcanUcan on May 21, 2014 at 8:53am Add comment
Part 2 of 3

Prep and Clean-up of Cartridge Carrier & Around Print Heads. (How much is cleaned depends on the ink build-up inside the printer. This description covers all known collection areas.)

7. Next, move the ink carriage somewhere in the center of the print area. Do this by plugging the printer back in, press the power button (turn on). The carriage will go through a standard start-up cycle. Watch the cycle -- you can do it again. When the carriage is somewhere in the middle of the print area, pull out the power cord and it will stop near that location.

8. Wear gloves as needed. The ink cartridge carrier is removed by lifting up on the large clamping arm that surrounds the carrier. When lifted all the way up, the carrier can be removed. Caution: The carrier has the print head electrical contacts on the back and the two print heads (color & black) on the bottom. Hold the carrier by the sides. Do not touch the print heads with anything. When setting it down, don't set it on the print head side or the contact side. That said. holding by the sides, using as many as needed cotton swabs moistened in clean rubbing alcohol, clean the areas on the bottom and sides that have ink build-up, excepting again do not wipe across the actual print heads. [As an option & at your risk, when the printer is being re-assembled an empty spray bottle or a bottle with a top pinhole can be used to drip rubbing alcohol over the print heads to loosen any ink if you have had a clogged print head problem -- it might help. Then just swab away residual ink and liquid to dry before re-assembly. Also note that a head cleaning solution is also available for -- it may be useful in some cases]. Your option here to vacuum the paper guide area at the print area if it looks dusty. After the carrier, the bottom of the carriage may also have residual ink on it's bottom. Place a cut strip of printer paper between the carriage and the paper guides below. Then a swab can be forced under the carriage without getting ink on the paper guide area. Examine the rollers where the paper is guided and swab any obvious ink smudges as needed.

Cleaning the cartridge docking area--


This is one of the toughest areas because the mechanical construction/parts are complex. Take one or two photos of this assembly -- the white plastic pieces. Make sure the photos are viewable/retrievable and take notes - make sketches if it helps. It was reported previously by other(s) that the dock area is where the absorbers are -- this is only part of the story. The print head docks into the rectangular shapes at the top. These are seal areas and the start of the absorber system. Below this, two tubes are attached, one each for the black (right) and colored ink (left). These tubes (appear to be silicone) are attached and routed down and back to a large white plastic cylindrical unit. This appears to be a pump. The waste ink is pumped from the docking area to an area behind the docking area where the absorbers are located. Forgetting the absorbers for now, do not recommend trying to detach these tubes.

The docking area assembly (white plastic) has four parts: These can be numbered 1-4 for this writing-- #1 is the main body and is also seen on the right side. #2 is the left side and contains two silicone wiper blades at top for the print head. #3 is the print head seal area in the middle with the two rectangular seals. #4 is the front arm piece (toward the front of the printer). If these parts are relatively clean (doubtful) you can leave them alone. The main reason to attempt to dis-assemble this area is to aid in cleaning part 2 -- the wiper blades. These may be loaded with thick ink residue. It seemed best to disassemble partly to clean. Small springs (that could easily be lost) are involved too. This assembly can be seen to slide to the right and left. Study this to see where it rides. See what stops it on the left side. Note that part 3 can be pushed down and springs back up from either end. If you slide the assembly hard to the right it moves into a lock position. Note how it locks and how to release it. Note part 2 and how it also can be pushed down and springs back into place. Having a feel for what's going on here will help with re-assembly and you'll know if it is correctly assembled. Note especially the orientation of part 4.

Partial dis-assembly of dock area: (suggest studying this area before continuing)

10. First, with the assembly toward the left side, carefully remove the right-side lower spring end from 1 and temporarily hook it on the lower post molded in the gray case. If it slips, know that the other end (left end) connects to the case on a post at the front bottom-right of this dock area. Now slide the assembly to the far right lock position. Unhook the spring from the left side attached to the bottom of the printer case. There is a post on the white assembly at the back where this end can be temporarily attached. Otherwise you can just let it go and pick it up later. Know that the right side attaches to part 1 at a hook molded in the bottom center area. Notes say that you can pull 2 forward while pushing it in at the back to clear its post. This will allow the whole assembly to come partially out. Now part 4 can be worked out of the assembly -- remembering how to put it back. With three pieces left of the assembly, the unit can be rotated CCW (counter-clockwise viewed from top) and pulled up to free the assembly except for the two tubes attached at bottom. Part 2 has the smallest diameter spring attached at bottom -- note it's attachment points and remove. Part 2 can be unclipped (plastic) from the body- may want to swab some ink before removing. Note the orientation of the wipers on this part. There is a stainless steel clip that holds the wipers together onto the plastic. This can be removed (a flat blade jeweler's or miniature screwdriver may help) and all can then be cleaned well. This is the end of the disassembly of this section. Now it's just clean-up and re-assembly for this writing. (If this area has much more ink residue, more disassembly may be best.) All areas with ink spatter/residue can be swabbed. The rectangular areas in part 3 can be dabbed with wet (rubbing alcohol) swabs, wiping any thicker residue until no build-up is seen.

Reassembly of docking area:
11. This is basically the reverse of the disassembly. Suggest reassembly of part 2 wipers while fresh in mind and then clipped back onto body with the smaller spring attached at bottom. The rest of the assembly can wait (or not) 'til the absorbers are cleaned and re-installed. The only other note is that the left and right lower springs need to be staged for the reassembly. Then the unit can be re-inserted, part 4 rejoined to the assembly, and then the spring ends can be re-hooked at left and right once the unit slides freely meaning that it is in proper position in its tracks.

End of part 2. - IcanUcan
Part 3 of 3.

Lastly the Ink Absorbers:

There are seven individual pads that make up the 'ink absorber' in the iP2000. They generally form an 'L' shape on the bottom of this printer and are relatively large (back pads around 4" long) Believe these are made of a synthetic fiber and are very white when new or clean. Four, stacked absorbers are in the tray in back (the top two are taped together). The front set consists of three pads (all of different shapes) stacked in the right-side, middle of the printer. The case is molded to hold these pads and to isolate this area from the remainder of the printer bottom. The pads are cut to make a well or cavity for ink collection near the knee of the 'L' shape. Above the knee are the waste-ink outlet tubes from the pump.

Removing the absorber pads:
12. The back four absorber pads are accessible and can be removed relatively easily with needle-nose pliers.

The front three pads, where most of the waste ink accumulates normally require much more disassembly of the printer. Again, apparently this was not an engineered maintenance item. Seems that performing further disassembly requires removal of the printer carriage assembly ... This looks like it's just inviting trouble -- more chance of damaging something, more risk of failure. Instead, there is an alternative. Cut a rectangular hole in the right side of the case. The hole needs to be approximately 1/2" tall x 1-5/8" wide. The hole needs to be about 1/8-1/4" below the right side wire guide molded in the case. There it will end up so the top of the top pad will be about in the vertical center of the hole. It needs to be centered (front to back) to near where these pads are located. There is one last disassembly item to perform. Two screws hold the pump unit in place. It cannot be removed in this procedure but it allows some 'wiggle room' to remove the front pads. The screws are accessed from the right side of the case. Recommend having long enough tweezers to grab these Phillips-head screws (same size as the two case screws removed earlier) as they are removed. Or a magnetized screwdriver tip can work well. The back screw attaches the pump to the case; the front screw goes into the end of a shaft --

Use a permanent marker to outline the cut on the side of the case. What to use to cut the case? One of the oscillating multi-tools with a narrow saw blade if available, will probably be easiest. A custom-ground, hardened scribing/cutting tool for a pen knife will work, and alternatively a hobby or pen-knife with a hook-style blade ground to make the tip into a scraper should work also. Just keep drawing the blade scraping off thin pieces of plastic at a time -- working away from corners. Once you have a groove started it just takes some time to finally work through. The plastic is about 3/32" thick in this area.

Have an old pan or container ready to place these ink-filled pads. Using a long screwdriver from the back, the top pad can be lifted slightly and positioned to grab from the side. Grab the top pad with needle-nose and begin pulling out through the cut hole while at the same time tilting & lifting the pump unit with your other hand from the top to gain more clearance for the pad. Little at a time the top pad should come out. The bottom two are easier. The last is the smallest. This will likely leave ink residue on the inside case wall at the cut and some on the case cut. Use more swabs and some long specialty swabs if you have them to clean up ink in on the case area and waste at the end of the discharge tubes. Filing the case cut to clean up most sharp edges will make re-installation of the pads easier.

Cleaning Pads:
Searching on the web for new pad material found nothing that was economical or easily, locally available. Given the specialty shapes of the pads, the best solution is cleaning the original pads with dish soap and water. Suggest first soaking pads in warm (not hot) water. Old, retired kitchen pans work well. After soaking, and using gloves, in sink, continue cleaning by working each pad with soap and cool water top and bottom 'til water/pad runs clean. May take around 10 minutes for some of the dirtiest pads. They will return to white with maybe some slight staining remaining. Once satisfied with cleanliness, wrap each pad in a paper towel and squeeze until it is mostly dry at surface. Then keep pads spread out (not stacked) and allow to air dry. This may take 1 to 2 days at room temperature depending on the humidity level. They can be put out in the sun too if it's warm enough outside. A warm area will speed drying time. Suggest drying completely to return to near new performance and minimize any undesirable effects (e.g. mold growth).

Brief Notes on Reassembly:

1. Re-install front pads through the hole cut into side. Lift/tilt pump assembly slightly as needed to ease installation. Push down with screwdriver to make pads level without gaps. Replace rear pads.
2. Tape once or twice over cut hole. Packing tape or any strong water-proof tape should work.
3. Re-position pump assembly over shaft end, aligning with screw holes. Replace screws with magnetized-tip of screwdriver to avoid dropping them.

4. Complete re-assembly of ink docking area. If not performed earlier. This may take some time -- possibly the toughest part of re-assembly.
5. At your risk, can remove the cartridge carrier again and drip rubbing alcohol on heads and swab around these if believe it's needed - depending on last printer performance. Do not expect to clean all ink from the print head -- it will always run as a stained (not clear) solution. This process is to help loosen any dried ink areas if they are suspected (not to absolutely clean the heads). Dry as much as possible around this area without touching heads, soaking up solution that gets trapped near the edges of the film covering and extending to the carrier edges. This can be allowed to air dry for ~10 mins after dry swabbing is completed.
6. Plug the printer back in. Press the power button to dock carrier.
7. Replace main case cover, re-installing the two screws in front and engaging all clips.
8. Clip right front (switch) cover back in place.
9. Left front cover back in place. -- or maybe in conjunction with front cover below.
10. Front dark cover back in place -- snapped at hinges, careful about switch arm.
11. Replace side panels, snapping back into place.
12. At some power-up use the sequence mentioned by other(s) to reset the absorber warning message, since now the absorbers are almost like new.
13. Re-insert cartridge(s), re-align print head through the maintenance tab of the printer software is suggested.

-end of part 3 of 3 and this posting
by IcanUcan on May 25, 2014 at 8:56am Add comment