asked Sep 8, 2004 at 8:22am
Hp HP DeskJet 1220C

HP 1220C - No Power

I have an HP 1220c professional series printer. before I left the office Friday for labor day (I usually leave all my plotters and printers on), I turned everything off. This morning, I tried to turn the printer on and NOTHING happens. Completely dead. I have checked the outlet and cord with a voltmeter and they are working fine. Can anyone help. Also, how do you open this printer up!
My 1220 is leaking ink, and I'm told I need to take a bottom panel off to get at the sponge below the ink cartridges. I can't find any way of taking the panel off - there are no screws. What's the secret, please?

-Ian B, Devon, England.
by unknown on Oct 22, 2006 at 7:19am Add comment
If you push the power on switch and the light does not flash momentarily, then the power supply has probably died, a common problem. The good news is that the usual power supply version that fails can be fixed by replacing a $0.10 resistor. An new power supply costs just under $100. The case must be removed to do the repair, a bit stressful, but its easy from there on if you know how to use a soldering iron.

Right now I'm revising my disassembly instructions, so let me know if you want to tackle the repair yourself.
by Bert on Sep 8, 2004 at 2:06pm Add comment
Do you have info on the disassembly?


- Anonymous
Hey Bert.

I hate to be on here again asking the same question about no power to the 1220c. But: as it seemed to be repaired, it only worked for a few prints, then the same thing, green light flashes, no power-up. The photo sensor for the rear door had been a little loose, so i resoldered it. No luck.


I have now taken this particular printer apart about 15 times, so I think I am getting pretty good at it. i can now do it in about 3 minutes. here is how I go about it.

1. Remove the rear access door by turning it to the unlocked position and pull.

2. Remove the two screws at the top of the printer, just under the front access panel where you normally change the cartridges.

3. You can now remove the top cover assembly (a little gentle pursuasion may be required).

3b. You should now be able to access the power supply and the main board. The power supply is under the black plastic cover. Continue with the following steps for a complete disassembly.

4. Once the top cover assembly is removed, take a small flat screwdriver, and release the rear clip holding one of the side panels in place. Note that there are two: one in the rear, and one in the front. They are found in a slot in the bottom metal plate. The best way to release them is to push the pin in and up. Now pull the half round side portion of the panel located on the paper outfeed away from the assmebly. Just a bit of force is needed, and push the front clip the same way as the rear clip.

5. Repeat step four on the left side of the printer.

6. Note that the darker grey crescent shaped pieces on the sides of the printer do not have to be removed at all.

7. Once you have the printer body apart it is a simple matter to get the power supply out. Make sure to discharge any power stored in the unit before toouching it or youll get a bit of a shock.

8. While you have the printer apart, I highly recommend that you clean the service station below where the cartridges rest. Just rinse it in the sink with hot water until it runs clear. remove the little motor first tough. These service stations have a tendancy to overflow after a while making a huge mess. Wear surgical or rubber gloves though: the stains are a bugger to get off.
by unknown on Sep 10, 2004 at 7:19pm Add comment
I've logged a lot of time myself on two 1220s that I bought for resale. Since they were not customer machines I had the time and latitude to experiment with them, particularly the power supply.

I suspect that since the light flashes, there is still a problem with the switch linkage or the main board. On one of the printers I had to press the access cover in firmly to get the cover locking pin to engage the linkage properly.

Deskjet 1220C, testing the Power Supply

This is a way to determine if the Deskjet 1220C power supply is operative. WARNING, for people who have ELECTRONICS TROUBLESHOOTING EXPERIENCE ONLY. There is LETHAL VOLTAGE in the power supply.

The power switch connector pins must be shorted together constantly for the power supply to operate on the bench. Working from the top of the power output connector down here is what to expect.

18 VDC, Com., Com., 0V DC, *PSE ( 13.3V DC), Com., 32 VDC

What I have named “PSE” (Power Supply Enable) is the pin I assume tells the power supply that the main board is connected. The 13.3V DC it is pulled down to essentially 0V when connected to the system. The printer power switch makes momentary contact, therefore something has to tell the power supply to 'latch' on if the main board is connected, otherwise the power switch pins would not have to be constantly shorted as in bench testing.

Connected to the system
18 VDC, Com., Com., 5V DC, *PSE (0V DC), Com., 32 VDC
by Bert on Sep 10, 2004 at 9:57pm Add comment
You have a lot of info. but I don't know which pin to short in order to test the power supply.

wl2868 - Anonymous
This is happening to me too. About 5 months ago my printer would not power up. I tried the rear access panel several time locking and unlocking and still nothing! I am really pissed off. This printer cost me alot of cash and only worked for about a year or so.

I just tried pluging it in today to see if it would power up. It didnt at first. THen I just left it and half an hour later it came on by itself! I went to test the rear panel by unlocking and locking it again. It then would not turn on again! I tried pushing in the button in the rear access panel. Still nothing.

Anyone have any help with this? I dont think its the power supply. I think there is a loose connection or bad design since this seems to be happening to many others.
by unknown on Sep 11, 2004 at 11:21am Add comment
The optical sensor that detects the rear access door is actuated by the upper left retractable pin, looking from the rear. Remove the access door and poke something in the hole to simulate the pin and try to turn on the power. If the power light doesn't come on, not even a blink, the power supply is likely the problem.

Remove the case and see if the cable going between the power supply and main board it connected securely. Its a bit awkward, but it is possible to test the power supply in place. You can probe the power supply connector with a multimeter while pushing and holding the power switch. Find someone to help (see my last post for details).

If your power supply is dead, and you have the model that typically blows R13 (15K), its an easy fix. R13 is to the right of the toroidal tranformer near the power switch connector. It is commonly covered with the glue used to stabilize the transformer which I speculate causes it to overheat and open. I've never seen one that looks physically burned. I replace it with a higher wattage resistor, either 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt.

Once the wimpy R13 is replaced, there have been few posts concerning other problems with the power supply. HP sells a new generation power supply that is used in the Deskjet 9300, which is basically a repackaging of the 1220C.
by Bert on Sep 11, 2004 at 3:42pm Add comment

It sounds to me like you are having a problem either with the photosensor mechanism, as Bert noted, or the actual photosensor itself. Assuming of course that you are getting the afformwntioned quick blink of the green light when you push the power button. If you remove the top cover of the printer, you will be able to see where the armature that is actuated by the rear door pins should go through the photosensor. That is a good place to start. It should only take about .5 hrs to do.
by unknown on Sep 14, 2004 at 3:38pm Add comment
Thanks everyone for your replies. I replaced the R13 resistor on the power supply circuit board with a 1/2 watt 15k ohm resistor and things are back to normal.
by Anonymous on Sep 15, 2004 at 11:30am Add comment
Thanks for all the replies. I replaced the R13 resistor on the power supply circuit board with a 1/2 watt 15k ohm resistor and everything is fine now. I have discovered that this is a common problem in these printer because of some glue they use on a toroid right next to the resistor. The glue covers the tiny resistor and it overheats.
by Jay on Sep 15, 2004 at 11:41am Add comment
You all are a huge help! I hope! The same thing has happened to us. My mother gave me her 1220C because our printer finally died. She could never get it to work again because there was.... you guess ed it, no power. My husband took it apart and it appeared the resistor you are refering looks fine, but he is not getting any reading from volt meter. Other resistors on the power supply, the glue actually looks melted and burnt. Is this a common problem with just more than the R13 resistor?
by Sandy on Sep 17, 2004 at 6:32pm Add comment
There is only one R13. R13 must be in the exact position described or you have a different version of the power supply. In that case, the failed component is not yet known. A failed R13 can look physically okay but still be defective. The only certain test is to check the resistance with a multimeter. A good R13 will measure around 15K (15,000 ohms) plus or minus 5\%. The failed ones I have seen measure much higher.

R13 will have colored bands which signify it's value, brown (1), green (5), orange (X 1000 multiplier), and gold (plus or minus 5\% tolerence).
by Bert on Sep 18, 2004 at 12:29am Add comment
Thanks for your reply Bert. I had my wife post my question to the board last night and she got it partially right. I know there is only 1 R13. My question was if there are other trouble resistors in this power supply. I have 2 other spots where the glue used is actually bubbled and burnt black. On the opposite end of the board from R13, above capacitor C9 is one spot. The other spot in question is just to the right of Capacitor C77. The glue is spread out and burnt black so at this point I`m not sure what components are under this burnt glue.
by unknown on Sep 18, 2004 at 7:57am Add comment
What you describe is typical. I'm not sure if the color of the glue is due to heat or aging, maybe both. What ever, the failed component always seems to be R13. I theorize that R13 was intitially too low a wattage and being covered with glue made the situation worse. It wouldn't hurt to carefully chip away the glue from the places you mentioned. Whether it will help prolong the life of the power supply is unknown.
by Bert on Sep 18, 2004 at 10:27am Add comment
Replaced the R13 resitor as instruced and all went well. Unit powered up etc... Now I just have to get a new ink cart. The led blinks constantly. I tried cleaning everything but no way around it. Anyways, minor stuff now that the units powers up. Thanks for the help
by unknown on Sep 18, 2004 at 12:48pm Add comment
Hey there,
i am having the same problem with mine only i can't seem to find the R13. the only resistor i found in the general area is partially under burnt glue is the R3. The board number is A0B03B if that helps ID my supply. Those zeros might be 'O's. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
by unknown on Sep 23, 2004 at 4:22pm Add comment
There is a possibility that you have a different version of the power supply. I'm looking at the repairable version right now. Just to the right of the small connector that the power switch plugs into is a donut shaped widget with some wires intwined in it. Just to it's right is R13, possibly under glue (coded brown, green, orange and gold). If you don't have this version of the PS you will probably have to buy a new one.
by Bert on Sep 23, 2004 at 5:26pm Add comment
i have read all of your advice on replacing the resister but getting into the printer seems to be the main problem for me!!! it would be very handy if anyone had any tips on breaking into this thing! thanx a lot Gav
by unknown on Oct 18, 2004 at 3:50am Add comment
See Meahan's 9/10/2004 19:19:47 post in this thread.

Here's my version. Comparing the two them may expedite the break in.

1. Open the hinged cover and remove the two T20 Torx screws.
2. Release the left end cover extension that forms the left side of the paper tray. The extension has four clips that secure it, three accessible from the top and one from the bottom. The top three clips are released by prying three slots with a medium slot style screwdriver. The forth clip is on the underside. Patience is called for because the extensions tend to relatch. Avoid the temptation to slam the printer against a wall.
3. Release and remove the left end cover. There is clip front and rear that is accessed from underneath. Release them with a screwdriver and the cover will come off horizontally. There will be some resistance.
4. Remove the rear cover. It has some tabs that hook under the right end cover. Looking from the rear, it slides to the right. There will be some resistance.
5. Remove the right end cover. Follow steps 2 and 3.

Since you have it apart:
Remove and clean the service station. Scrape out as much congealed ink as possible, remove the motor (you will need a T10 Torx driver), and immerse the service station in hot water. After a few rinsings it will be nearly like new. Cleaning it avoids an eventual overflow.
by Bert on Oct 18, 2004 at 9:05am Add comment
Hello Everyone
I have no power comming out of my 1220 supply.I have taken Berts advice ( Thank you Bert )and changed r13 but still have no joy.Has anyone any more idea's or a circuit diagram for the power supply.

Thank you Paul
by Paul on Oct 26, 2004 at 9:33am Add comment

Circuit diagrams do no tseem to be available for this printer (at least not through anyone other than HP who does not seem willing to give them up). I di have a service manual that another person was king enough to send to me if it would be of any help to you. [email protected] durrring regular working hours.
by unknown on Oct 30, 2004 at 4:35pm Add comment

I have a deskjet 1220 with power problem, the board is C2693-60002.

The burnt area of the board is nearer R11 and R12 than R13. Dos anyone know description of R11/12 resistors, I think they are 100K but not sure of rest of description. The 100K does not actually correspond to the colour code of the resistor which is Red Blue Yellow Gold!!
by unknown on Nov 5, 2004 at 7:17am Add comment

I would be inclined to replace the resistors with the type same rating as the older ones, with the exception of R-13. Follow the color code.
by unknown on Nov 8, 2004 at 3:55pm Add comment
Do you know if the is any tolerance to the voltages you describe? My p.s. shows 19.5, com, com, 5, 0, com, but the last one is 24.5 it changes _ 1v but never to 32. I would love to know if this is causing the problems I'm having. (steady flashing of power led 1/sec and a bump, bump, bump, as motors try to turn.
by Anonymous on Nov 8, 2004 at 4:53pm Add comment
I made the measurements while the printer was idle. I find it hard to believe that the 32V would sag to 24V when the motors are trying to operate, unless something is drawing to much current. Does the power supply output 32V when the power supply is disconnected from the printer?
by Bert on Nov 8, 2004 at 10:24pm Add comment

Yes but I can use a colour code calculator to read the ohms resistance value but what is the wattage of that resistor.
by unknown on Nov 12, 2004 at 1:59am Add comment
I didn't unload the ps. but I did check it again and the 32v supply isn't there, even with all the motors unplugged. I don't think the motors are drawing too much power. I ordered a new ps. and I'll post back as soon as I have more info.
by Jerry on Nov 12, 2004 at 10:39am Add comment
Big, big thanks to everyone for your helpful information. My printer is now as good as new with R13 replaced.
by unknown on Nov 13, 2004 at 12:40pm Add comment
This thread was helpfull in that it gave me a little more information (Thanks Bert) about the voltage outputs of my power supply. I was only getting 24.5 volts instead of 32v. on one output. The power light was coming on and flashing about 1 flash/sec along with a bump, bump, bump, noise. The service station motor was pulsing at the same rate. It also would not turn off by the button. After replacing the ps. the printer operates properly now.
by Jerry on Nov 18, 2004 at 10:06am Add comment
This thread was GREAT. Just fixed my moms 1220C.
R13 was still good but replaced it anyhow w/ 1/4w. Removed the coil to remove all of the baked resin, then re-soldered it.
All worked fine after that.
Dismantled and cleaned the service tray - what a mess - have blue fingers even wearing gloves.
Thanks all...
by Keith on Nov 23, 2004 at 9:14pm Add comment
I have a been looking for some help on this problem with my 1220c. I was going to send it out for repair because it would not power up. After finding this discussion, I checked to see if the r13 was the problem.
I think I found it and it does have glue on it that looks burned. It is just to the right of the little plug that goes to the left and appears to go to the power buttons. I have never worked on electronics but have tackled many projects with success. Is this something an amature can do the first time? Help!!!
by unknown on Nov 27, 2004 at 3:44pm Add comment
If you know how to solder, the repair is easy. Go to an electronic parts store and get either a 1/4 or 1/2 watt 15K (15,000 ohms) resistor.
by Bert on Nov 27, 2004 at 8:22pm Add comment
Hi Bert, I was so glad to hear from you! I do have a solder gun and solder, but I have never used one before. Do I heat up the backside location of the resistor to get the old one out? And then what should I do? I'm on my way to the store now to get the resistor I need. I look forward to hearing from you again.
by unknown on Nov 28, 2004 at 5:34am Add comment
I had the same no power problem. I unsoldered resistors R12, R13 and R(14?) plus diode D12 for proper testing. All tested good. I unsoldered the coil next to R13 and cleaned up all the burned glue. I carefully soldered everything back together and the unit runs fine now! I hope it continues to do so. Thanks to all who participated in this thread.
by Bob on Nov 28, 2004 at 8:54am Add comment
Hi, I'm back from the store, I had one little problem.
They did not have a 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt with 15k. They only had 1/2 watt with 10k or 1/2 watt 22k, will I be able to use one of these? Or do i need to look for a 15k? Please advise.
by unknown on Nov 28, 2004 at 9:05am Add comment
To Diana re: soldering. The area around R13 CAN be done with a soldering gun, but you would have to be very skilled at soldering to do it. Guns are typically 100 watt or higher - way overkill for this repair. I used a small pencil iron to repair my power supply. You should probably do the same. They're VERY inexpensive compared to the cost of the power supply you'll be repairing. To remove the old resistor, heat the little pad of silver colored solder on the green side of the board where one of the resistor R13's leads goes through. While heating, gently pull up on that end of the resistor with long nose pliers. Once the solder melts, the lead will be released and that end of the resistor will pull up. Do the same for the other end. To install the new resistor, you'll need to push the leads back through the board. If the holes in the board are open, push the leads through; if they're closed with solder, you'll need to start the lead through then heat the closed hole to melt the solder which will allow the lead to push through all the way. Once the new resistor is in place, gently heat the lead and the pad on the circuit board while trying to apply solder. It will hit a melt point and flow onto both parts simultaneously. That's it. It's soldered. Get the iron off of the parts. Overheating is the thing to avoid. Repeat the soldering process for the other lead. If the new solder repair has a dull sheen to it, the work wasn't hot enough and you'll have to reheat. Don't add more solder - Just reheat the junction and you'll see the solder 'reflow' on the parts and cool with a shiny appearance. Good luck.
by Bob on Nov 28, 2004 at 9:13am Add comment
To Diana re: resistor. You should use a 15K. There may be room in the design for deviation, but chances are pretty good that they put a 15K in there because they needed a 15K in that spot. If you can't find one easily, you can 'create' one by using one of your 10K parts and add a 5K part to it. Put them together like a train. In electronic trems, it's called connecting them in 'series'. On the power supply board, you would insert one leg of a 5K through one hole, one leg of a 10K through the hole. At that point both resistors will be standing straight up similar to the R12 nearby. Solder the pads on the board as described in the post above. You could then solder the two loose leads of the resistors together to complete the circuit. Neatness counts, so trim all excess lead wire with suitable cutters.
by Bob on Nov 28, 2004 at 9:24am Add comment
Hi Bob,
I was able to find a 1/2 watt 15,000 ohm at another electronic store. I removed the r13 and the thing that had all the glue on it and cleaned it up (this had 2 wires wrapped around a little donut looking thing). I then replaced the resistor (which is much bigger than the last one) and put back the wires on the little donut thing (the wires were red and gold, I put the red on the left in the front and back holes and the gold on the right front and back holes) I hope I'm explaining this right. I then used my solder gun which has an attachment that looks like a needle and soldered all 6 points. Do I need to put the whole thing back together to test it? Is there a way to see if it is working at this point?
by unknown on Nov 28, 2004 at 11:27am Add comment
You need to screw the power supply back on to the metal chassis of the printer. There are metal grounding loops under two of the mounting screws that were put there for a reason. Once the power supply is secured, hook up the power switch connector and the output connector. Next - reinstall the rear paper access door. Then attach the AC power and see if the printer will show some kind of sign of powering on. If so, power it back off and complete reassembly. If not, then something's amiss and you need to find out what.
by Bob on Nov 28, 2004 at 11:49am Add comment
Well, sad to say my 1220c did not power up after replacing the r13, What would my next step be? I thought this was it for sure!!! It had all the symptoms of being the r13 resistor. Maybe I did something wrong? Help!!
I love my printer!
by unknown on Nov 28, 2004 at 12:28pm Add comment
To Diana Re: Still Broke. E-mail me at the e-ddress below. It's coded - you know what to change, right?

bobkos at earthlink dot net

I'll help.
by Bob on Nov 28, 2004 at 12:50pm Add comment

Am I understanding correctly that you removed the coil next to R-13 after having replaced R-12, R-13, and R-14 with no success in powering up? If so does the coil seem to be the missing link that is my holy grail? I am so close to throwing my 1220c away; but I fear that the day the garbage man takes my lifeless printer away I will find the answer that has eluded me. I am frustrated to death with this printer and do not want to take it apart again withoiut hope that I might be able to fix it.
Just to remind you what my printer is doing. I replaced the three resistors mentioned earlier without success. I did notice that the coil had a burnt-brown adhesive around it, but dismissed it. After all that, I took the printer apart again ang jiggled one of the photosensors (more out of frustration and nothing to lose)and it powered up momentarily, but never again. Just that cursed green flash. What do you think.
by unknown on Nov 30, 2004 at 3:33pm Add comment
Hats off to you folks. My HP 1220C is as good as new again! The R-13 resistor was indeed the culprit. Just think I've wasted nearly a year messing with HP's so called tech support and the best advise they could give was "replace the printer". I only used this printer for the large paper handling and honestly, it only printed through two cartridge changes.

HP used to be my number 1 choice in printers. Not so anymore.

Anyway, Thanks a million! BTW, my local vcr repair shop just gave me the resistor! My fix was free and my time, well, thats another matter.
by unknown on Nov 30, 2004 at 4:03pm Add comment
Check out this site for some good insight on the quality od HP and others tech support. It worth the read.
by unknown on Nov 30, 2004 at 4:12pm Add comment
Paul I have the manual on another computer that I'm currently not using and that computer is in storage. However I can go get it for you and send you the manual. Send me your email address because I'll have to use that machine. When you sent your last contact your address was hidden. Sorry about the delay getting back to you.

For the rest of you not getting your power supply up, getting another power supply might be the quickest way back up. Believe it or not Eb 303 ay is a good source for getting those things just be careful of the persons feedback rating. There is one guy out there who sells them for $66 with shipping included if you need his handle drop me a line. Please write out your email address as I do not use reply to sender unless I know you.
by unknown on Dec 2, 2004 at 9:50pm Add comment
If anyone is interested in taking a look at my power supply or my board please let me know. I will pay the shipping and tech fees. [email protected]
by unknown on Dec 6, 2004 at 8:53am Add comment
It's probably cheaper to buy new parts.
Main board: C2693-69010
Power Supply: C2693-67012
by Bert on Dec 6, 2004 at 1:23pm Add comment
Hey guys. I have really enjoyed reading your posts regarding the power supply on the 1220C. Ours died mysteriously a few weeks ago and all indications is that it's the power supply. I really love the prints produced by the 1220C and would like to get it working again. I must admit that a few of the technical posts have me worried about trying a repair myself. I'd hate to do damage to either it or me. Is HP support really that uncooperative? I'd be happy to send it in for repairs.
[email protected]
by unknown on Dec 12, 2004 at 8:54pm Add comment
If you call HP expect to talk to someone who may have never seen a DJ 1220. I get the impression that the people, probably in India, are just reading canned responses from a computer. If you tell them that it is not under warranty and want to send it in for repair, things will probably go smoothly.

You may be better off seeking out a reliable local shop. If they are familir with the 1220, they should already know the cause. Play dumb and see if they will admit the power supply can be repaired without total replacement.

Another option, if the repair cost is too high, is to buy a new printer. The Deskjet 9300 is essentially the same machine.
by Bert on Dec 12, 2004 at 9:50pm Add comment
My experience with the repair shops are not that good. I was told that they could not tell if the power supply was bad or not without replacing it entirely. Somehow I doubt that. HP has been entirely uncooperative because of the expired warrantee. I agree with Bert that the DJ 9300 is essentially the same printer. I have one, and it seems to work fine. It seems to print with the same quality and speed as the 1220. I suspect the only difference is in the power supply and main board. I haven't tried a swap of parts for fear that I could void the warrantee, or end up with two non-functioning printers. Good luck though. many people seem to have good luck with the replacing of the faulty resistors.
by unknown on Dec 15, 2004 at 9:14am Add comment
A techy question. I have checked with Radio Shack for the resistor listed as a replacement for R13 and they have one that matches perfectly except it's rated at 22ohm as opposed to 15. Is this okay or a problem?
[email protected]
by unknown on Dec 15, 2004 at 10:49am Add comment
The value of the resistor must be 15K (15,000 ohms), color coded brown (1), green (5), orange (X1000), and gold (5\% tolerence). If Radio Shack doesn't have it, try an electronics repair shop.
by Bert on Dec 15, 2004 at 1:03pm Add comment
Thanks to Bert and everyone who helped me with my HP power problem. It was indeed R13. My wife knew a guy who does repair stuff and he came by. With help from the information I copied and printed off this list, he was able to open the panels of the printer, diagnose the problem and replace the resistor in less than an hour. Once the bad resistor was removed, it showed no resistance whatsoever. That was the culprit!

Thanks to you guys again,

David in Shreveport
by unknown on Jan 5, 2005 at 5:37pm Add comment
I was so jazzed about having my printer working, I placed several photos of the R13 resistor. You can clearly see the bad areas. Hope this helps..


by unknown on Jan 5, 2005 at 9:44pm Add comment
Wow - to avoid me having to go thru the same pain that you did, is there any chance you can mail me a copy of your printer's TEST PAGE ? I am in dire straits having to deliver a TEST PAGE for purposes of a rebate/trade-in program. - Anonymous
It is a great help your R13 images.

Looking at the black stuff on the side of the resistor it looks to be coming from with in the resistor itself.

I am going to cut the one that I probably remove from my printer and see what is made of.

Thanks again. - Anonymous
I have a 1220C hp deskjet printer with what
looks like somewhat a simelar problem.

When pressing the on button I get a single
flash of the green lite then nothing. Sometime
I have been able to remove the rear panel and replace it then it will work for a while. Lately that has not worked. The last time I hit the side a few times then it worked.
Now nothing seems to work. (other that the single flash lite when pressing the on button)

Anyone have any ideas ????

by Burton on Mar 26, 2005 at 12:57pm Add comment
Burton, Now your symptom sounds like it is the rear cover optical switch that is giving you the problem.
Remove the rear cover by turning the knob counter-clockwise and remove it.
Next, insert a small pointed object in the upper-left slot where the pins fit and push the black plastic lever in and try to turn on the power, if it goes on the rear cover was not in tight enought.
Let me know how you amke out.
Max - Anonymous
A million thanks to the people on here! My 1220C has been a pain to turn off for a long time and this weekend decided to play dead. I found this page and learned about the R13 problem, thought "what have I got to loose", dusted off my soldering iron and got myself a 6p replacement resistor and had a go myself. Printer's back to life and is better than it's been for the last year or more!
Once again, Thank you!
by Anonymous on Mar 27, 2005 at 4:26am Add comment
I have fixed several of these printers and on only one did I find R13 to be bad. If you have one that R13 is good in and it still will not power up CAREFULLY remove the glue that is in the center portion of the power supply board. There are several small glass diodes under this glue (and they are easily broken) and possibly a resistor or two depending on how sloppy they got while putting the glue one on. What happens is that the glue is an organic compound that picks up moisture from the air and over time becomes conductive. This throws off the bias on a turn on transistor for the power factor correction IC located on the daughter board (pin 8 of the L6561). If you have no voltage on pin 8 (use pin 6 for the ground point)then the turn on trasistor is off and most likely the glue is preventing it from coming on, remove the glue and it will most likely solve the problem. A tell tale way to spot the problem is to notice if the glue is dark brown or black, if it is remove it as it has started to turn to carbon and is now conductive. I fixed two printers in one day (1220C's) by just removing the glue around those small diodes. I have seen the same glue used on VCR's over the years and it caused similar problems with leakage resistance. Hope this helps some of you get your printers going.
by unknown on Apr 12, 2005 at 7:31am Add comment
hi,can any one supply me with the R13,part that i need too repair my faults power supplies.i will need about ten.many thanks dean
by deano on Apr 14, 2005 at 12:54pm Add comment
Thanks!! To all those persons who posted tips on who to repair the HP 1220c DeskJet printer Power Supply, it was very useful, it was very informative and it also made my day.The printer is work fine and my work is done, so it is time the go to the beach.Have a Irie Day.

Dwayne Hibbert
Kingston, Jamaica
West Indies.
by unknown on Apr 19, 2005 at 12:06pm Add comment
I've got the classic 1220C no power issue as well. I've pulled my top/leftside cover off, that was easy - good directions. Removed the power supply as well and "sorta" found the R13 resistor. It's completely buried in hard dark brown glue. The glue fills the space under the small transformer and was even slightly sticking to the R11 resistor.

Any advice for removing this glue? It's really brittle and seems to be taking way more effort than it should with a small pen knife scraping it.

Thanks in advance...

edit--- was able to free and remove R13 with patient scraping. Just picked up 1/2 and 1/4 watt 15K resistors. Man, they're a lot bigger than the puny little OEM resistor...

edit #2--- the R13 replacement brought my 1220c back to life! used the 1/2 watt 15k resistor. Thanks!
by thinkcooper on Apr 21, 2005 at 10:37am Add comment
desde venezuela, telefono 0414 2851116 cod 058, disculpen que me intrometa en su converzacion pero me atrevo decirte en cuanto a la pregunta o la duda que tienes sobre tu impresora hp 1220 te digo, revisaste una bobina que hay se encuentra despues de la entrada del cable que viene del encendido, osea el numero del circuito de la bobina es L13 esta bobina sirve como proteccion del circuito de encendido, esta bobina suele abrirce y acaciona esa falla de encendido.....
by Anonymous on Apr 27, 2005 at 8:09am Add comment
I too have no power on my 1220c. I get no lights at all. After spending a little time, thanks to the posts here, opening up the printer I found a bad R13. It measured 2.5 meg ohms. However, I still do not have power. I notice, from some of the post here, that the glue can also be the cause. I will be looking at that tonight because I can see several spots where the glue is BLACK. So I might try removing that glue also. However the circuit board area around the R13 is discolored so I believe my problem is still in this area. I was wondering does anyone have a schematic of this power supply or a list of voltage test points that I can take some measurements off of? I want to mak sure that I still have a power supply problem before I go any further.

I also noticed another resistor that is located near the power connector going to the controller board. Does anyone know the values of these resisters? Mine is discolored by glue again but it is hard to tell what value it should be.

One more question, does any one know how the paper jam panel (in locked position) sensor is suppose to work? Does it signal that the panel is in the locked possition by a logic one or zero? How do I test that this sensor is working correctly or bypass it to make sure it is working?

Thanks is advance. This is a very useful site.

by johndpick2 on Aug 11, 2005 at 9:18am Add comment
I have a customer's 1220C, no power, but the strange thing is this:

They have already replaced the power supply board (or at least they said they had...) and the printer still does not come on.

After reading up on the issues above, I decided to try to take off some of the glue / goop, just to see if that would help. OOPS! Some glue decided it REALLY liked Diode #5, so it hung on and D5 snapped like a dry twig.

Of course, not knowing what D5 does or where it fits in the circuit, makes it difficult to replace (unless I make some BIG assumptions...)

So: Anyone have a diagram of this circuit?

I'd post some pics of the power supply (seems to be a very different revision than most described) but this board does not allow posting photos, so maybe if I find a place for them elsewhere I will post back a URL, OK?

Part Numbers:
0903-A8B2 R1C
Made in China A015908

Output 18V 2.2A DC
32V .64A DC
Max 60W

(BTW, R13 on mine is a chip resister on the bottom of the board, if that helps ID the version of the board for anyone...)

NONE of the glue / goop is discolored.
by unknown on Sep 8, 2005 at 2:10pm Add comment
I just replaced the R13 resistor even thought it tested good on the board.
Put in a 1/2 watt,15K.
There was no glue on the old one and it was not burned.
Printer is now working fine!
So, chew on that one for awhile.
by Max on Sep 23, 2005 at 10:17am Add comment
God Bless you guys!!!!

R13, 1/4 watt replaced and printer now works. Thank you for sharing your discovery. In this world of increasing greed, it is heartening to know that people cooperate and help one another.

My R13 was covered with glue from the toroid next door. There's no need to replace the glue. If you use a larger resistor (1/4 or 1/2 instead of the original 1/8 watt), install it vertically.
by unknown on Sep 24, 2005 at 7:51pm Add comment

If when you were doing the work you removed and replaced the clean out port that may have fixed it.
by Stephen on Sep 24, 2005 at 8:49pm Add comment
There seems to be a new version of the 1220c power supply. C2693-6002 doesn't have the glue problem, but shorts out Z11. It's a transient voltage suppressor (P6KE350) It's wedged in next to the switching transformer. You have to pull the Xformer to get to it.
by stevestar99 on Oct 21, 2005 at 8:22am Add comment
I have the same symptoms as Burton.
For a while it would eventually turn on if I just lift the printer and tilt it around.
Now it just blinks and nothing works.

tried pushing the lever in on the inside of the rear access panel
and that didn't work.

Does this mean I have to take it apart and look at the power board?...was hoping that I wouldn't have to do that.
Any suggestion as to what I should try next?


by unknown on Oct 23, 2005 at 1:33am Add comment
Yes, you're going to have to remove the top cover. You're going to have to use a torx star driver to get the two screws out or if they're not in too tight you can try it with a pair of pliers. Once you have the cover off, there are two boards. The one on the left is the driver board. That's the one with the optic interlock on it. When you look at the board, you are going to see two little black horse shoe components mounted on the board. The one on bottom mid-left hand corner is the one you want. Take some black electrical tape and wrap it between the slot where the plastic arm passes through. The plastic arm has warped to the point where it won't break the infrared beam no matter how hard you push on from inside the paper jam cover compartment.
by Anonymous on Oct 23, 2005 at 3:59am Add comment

well...of course, it turned on this morning just fine....
thanks for the info though. i'm sure I will have to do that at some point. will definitely save it for later. - unknown

I have HP 1220C Professional Series A3 size printer.

I have the problem with power supply. On checking i cam to know that the Cables going to Power On switch & motor from Logic Card are cut by rat. I do not have the diagram to join the same. There are twelve cables in this loop. The card has only one connector.

Can anybody help me out to solve the problem.
by unknown on Nov 11, 2005 at 5:07am Add comment

I have HP 1220C Professional Series A3 size printer.

I have the problem with power supply. On checking i cam to know that the Cables going to Power On switch & motor from Logic Card are cut by rat. I do not have the diagram to join the same. There are twelve cables in this loop. The card has only one connector.

Can anybody help me out to solve the problem.
by unknown on Nov 11, 2005 at 5:11am Add comment
Like so many others, my power supply assembly has packed up. I have replaced R13 but thought I would clean up other blackened areas on the board. Whilst cleaning off the blackened glue in the centre of the board, I managed to break the D4 diode. It is very small (approx. 2mm) and has a blue ring around one end. I need to get a replacement but have no idea what to order. Can any one help?
by Anonymous on Dec 1, 2005 at 9:28am Add comment
I've been reading all these threads for a while. R11, R!2 and R13 all checked ok. I replaced R13 anyway. It appears I don't have any
DC voltage anywhere. I did short the connector for the power switch and I do have 120 AC at the input. There was a big black blob over some diodes on the other side. I managed to remove it with the help of a steak knife and a soldering iron. I too broke one of the diodes. The one on top of the 22uf capacitor. I hope it is just a switching diode and not a zener. I am going to try something like a 1N4148 or 1N4002.
by kensmith20000 on Dec 3, 2005 at 12:17pm Add comment
since you folks appear to have dissected and re-assembled this machine (over and over and over) perhaps somebody can tell me where to put back in a "pn "that dropped out from someplace (yeah, the printer now doesn't work. The pin is about 50mm (2 inches) long. One end has a knurled grip about 12mm (1/2 inch) long and about 9mm (3/16") across. The rest of the shaft is about 3mm (1/8") across with the end threaded and there is kind of a ring around the shaft in the middle. Thanx for any help you can give me. Off to buy parts for my table saw....THAT I know how to fix. Funny how I can buy parts and get schematics for a table saw 15 years old...but I can't for a five year old printer!!!!!

by unknown on Dec 5, 2005 at 6:22am Add comment
when you say it doesn't work, what is it doing? Any chance of a pic for us to help you out? Not very informative for a "private eye" now are we???
Serious now, let me know how it's not working & if possible a pic. of this part. You have me intrigued! I think I also have the service/& or parts manual for this machine.
Let us know?
Dazz UK
by hpwizard on Dec 5, 2005 at 5:02pm Add comment
All very interesting. I had a paper jam on my 1220c. I tore the caught up paper out but now it won't print at all. I press the ON button and it comes on, goes 'clink' then switches off, no cartridge moevement or anything. If I keep pressing the buttons I can get all lights to come on and stay on but nothing happens. I've had the printer about 18 months and am seriously thinking of switching to ... Dell or ... anyone but HP. Any ideas on what the fault could be?
Ray. - Anonymous
My printer had been out of action for about two months - completely dead. So following the advice on this forum, I replaced R13 and also the diode which I managed to break while cleaning off the gunge in the centre of the power supply board, reassembled the printer and switched it on. Lo and behold - it worked! The components cost me 50p - you can imagine my elation.
I printed some test pages and switched the printer off.
Later on the same day, I switched the printer on - completely dead - you can imagine my language. So, I stripped it down again to check the soldering etc, nothing obvious there. I cleaned up the circuit board behind the warning lights on the front of the printer - lots of muck there, reassembled the printer and switched it on - nothing, not a flicker. I left it for about half an hour while I considered various forms of suicide and then, suddenly, it came on and is working again!
Since then I have not dared to switch the printer off.

I have two questions now:
1. Is it safe to leave the printer permanently on (I.e. in standby mode)?
2. Does anyone know what the cause of this malady might be and how to cure it?

Sorry to ramble on,
by raphael on Dec 6, 2005 at 4:05am Add comment
Make sure the rear jam door is properly shut. There is a sensor there which cuts off power if it is open. I do know people who leave their printers on with no obvious problems.
Hope this helps?!
Dazz UK
by hpwizard on Dec 6, 2005 at 4:11am Add comment
Raphel, Sounds like it's the rear door switch as Dazz mentioned in his post.
That's where I'd look now.
I had this problem just before the R13 failed on my board.
Hope this helps.
by unknown on Dec 6, 2005 at 5:54am Add comment

Last I posted, I was told to check the optic light thing and that the plastic for that may have warped....I looked at it, and it looks fine....
so i'm now thinking maybe it's the glue that some people have been talking about....but which glue?

after opening the plastic cover over the power supply board, I see 3 battery-looking blue things attached to it towards the left side. these are lined up vertically and have some orange-ish/brown glue between them and also over some adjacent small diodes. are there bad? should I removed them?

around the center, there are more glue looking things, but are darker colored, almost black where it touches the board. one of the battery looking things near D6 and D3 is covered with it at its base and so are some tiny diodes next to it.And to the right of that, under JP9 and C77 (what I could see) is a reddish thing that also has glue on it spilling over and covering more small diodes.

Do I have to remove all these glue? or enough so that they are not touching multiple things?
and should I remove the power supply to do this? because it's really hard to reach some of these things
Thank you
by unknown on Dec 11, 2005 at 4:04pm Add comment

Can people advise on the best way to remove glue? and not breaking adjacent diods? some of which I can't even see to know if anything is there.

I been cutting the glue with a sharp knife, but is very slow...and I can't always get to the glue at the right angle to cut it.

by unknown on Dec 11, 2005 at 4:08pm Add comment
How I got mine working:

Evil glue on evil coil L13. That glue is not only conductive, it's corrosive! I tried the usual stuff, checked R13 (no glue on it, though), scraped glue away from diodes, resoldered broken solder joint at L13, no luck. Decided to remove the coil in order to remove glue from it completely, in case it was shorting across the coil. When I got the coil yanked free and the glue wad crunched away with needle-nose pliers I saw that one of the coil wires had been entirely eaten through! Nothing left but some green crud. Added a piece of wire to make that lead long enough, and on comes the printer. The other three coil leads look OK. Glued the coil down with silicone rubber. Tomorrow I will replace R13 and a few nasty-looking resistors as a preventive measure (the leads on those parts are showing corrosion from that glue). If I can figure out the diode types I will replace them also.
by rylos on Dec 29, 2005 at 10:28pm Add comment
I think this can help you all with your repairing problems of the HP 1220C. Free service manual download in zip format at: http://www.cartridgeshop.biz

by marekp on Jan 22, 2006 at 8:41pm Add comment
Hi Anonymous,

The info on disasembly is in this manual. This is a manual for the HP Technicians.


by marekp on Jan 24, 2006 at 4:01pm Add comment
Ray, Could be two things.
First, since you had a paper jam it could be the switch for the back door of your printer.
turn it around and you will see a knob in the middle of the rear cartdge, rotate it and remove the door. Over on the left side you will see a hole with a tab in it that a locking pin on the door engages to allow the printer to turn on.
It could be that the pin came loose durning the paper jam.
Using a pointed object push the tab in and try to turn the printer on.
If it fires up then you just have to reinstall the rear door and make sure you turn the locking knob all the way to the lock position to engage that tab.
If that doesn't work it's the resistor on the circuit board, just read some of the other repair texts to fix that problem.
Hope this helps.
by Anonymous on Feb 1, 2006 at 6:20am Add comment
Well thanks Max. That did bring the light up and some sound of carriage movement (although the cartridges have stayed 'locked' in the right hand corner of the printer), then it switched itself off again. Definite different response from before so maybe we're on the right track. I'll look into it the weekend when I stop my other work and have more time. I'll also let you know what happens. Don't know where you are but greetings from a little corner of Hertfordshire England.
Ray. - Anonymous
Ray, I'm near Detroit. Mich. in the states.
I've been to Hertfordshire when I worked in Europe for Chrysler, I used to visit our transmission reman. shop called 'ATP'- in 'Hednesford', do you know it?
Anyway, if that got your printer working then it was that switch for sure. I resommend that if you know how to solder, just solder the wires together and forget about that switch.
Let me know how you make out.
by Anonymous on Feb 2, 2006 at 7:33am Add comment
I don't know the Hednesford place Max as I haven't been out that way. The (my) family are travelling over to the US this year - down to San Diego in Summer to see friends. Back to the printer, still no joy I'm afraid. I can switch it on, there's some attempt to 'move the carriage' (catridges) but nothing actually happens, then it switches off again. Next time round, it stays on and the cartridges moved along the runner then back again. I tried a print and although it made the 'start-up' noises, no print was forthcoming, eventualy I received a message (in Word) to say there was an error printing (I've done this several times). I wonder if I damaged something when I tore the paper out or still have something stuck that prevents normal movement. Nice to talk to you Max - have a good weekend.
Ray. - Anonymous
Well, my 1220c just died. :(

After reading through this forum, is it safe to assume that since the green LED on the power button flashes momentarily when I press it, the problem IS NOT with the power supply?

I also must admit, I did something bad a few days ago. I was in a rush, the turn my power strip off before the printer completely powered down. Could I have left it in some 1/2 mechanical state from which, it can't reset itself now?
by Anonymous on Feb 16, 2006 at 4:48pm Add comment
The momentary flashing green light on power-up is a good indicator that the back panel isn't fully closed and locked.
by thinkcooper on Feb 16, 2006 at 11:18pm Add comment
Hi I am having a challenge with my printer. Deskjet 1220. it is failing to print. just showing a blinking amber light on the Ink icon. Please I have checked the ink and it is okay. What might be responsible for this. Please advice Dear gurus.
by unknown on Feb 23, 2006 at 1:47am Add comment
This thread rocks!!!

I just replaced R13 on my power supply, and the printer is back on line.

Thanks Guys
by ATCnut on Mar 31, 2006 at 10:28pm Add comment

It could be dirty electrical contacts in the carriage, or on the cartridge.

Have you tried the cartridge in another machine? (that's the only way to be sure it's good)
by Stephen on Apr 1, 2006 at 3:14am Add comment
My 1220c has the same problem - suddenly no power- the lights are all dead, etc. I took it apart and removed the power supply. I could not find R13 where it is supposed to be. I did find a resistor in the middle of the board near the botton edge that may be it but its color code is : blue, gray, brown, gold. It may be labelled R13 but the marking is obscured by white glue. If I measure it in place it reads 15 ohms- but I don't know if it can be measured without removal.
I notice that my power supply has a different part # C2693 - 60002 Rev 2. This is different than C2693 - 67012 that others have mentioned.
Can anyone give some help with this power supply?


by jpdavis423 on Jul 28, 2006 at 7:10pm Add comment
My 1220c had no power and no power light.

The resistor at R-13 read about 16500 ohms. I replaced it with a 1/2w 15K ohm 2\% resistor. Cleaned up the ink mess and reassembled. Worked great!

For a few print runs. Went to do a small print run today and no power, no power light, agian. It has been about a week since first repair.

During first repair the board was a little darker (burnt looking) near r13 but otherwise looked good. The 2 100K resitors next to r13 tested about 95K~97K, but I think that is within tolerance. My board has a little of the glue gunk on it as others have mentioned but not really bad at all. I have 5 more new resistors, should I go through all that again (same repair), or is it likely something else?

This printer is designed to do about 5000 sheets a month accourding to the repair guide linked above. Mine has likely never even printed 5000 sheets all together, however it is perfect for my small one person business and does a good job when it works. (one of the only hp's I have had that reliably only pulls in one blank sheet at a time)

Any ideas? if not maybe suggestions for replacement when on a budget and doing CAD drawing at 11*17?
by unknown on Aug 24, 2006 at 11:21am Add comment
cont. from above post...
About 3 weeks later, I decide to take it appart and fix it again.
Plugged it in and tested before moving, and nothing. Moved, plugged in and tested... powered up. Moved back to office, powered up and printing fine... hmmm.
by unknown on Sep 14, 2006 at 1:31pm Add comment
got the same problem here with my HP1220c which I have bought in march 2005. I don't use it very often and today it wouldn't turn on anymore. I have read all fixing infos in this thread...seemed to have worked for some of you :) but I can't even take it apart- missing the tools and the "star" shaped screw-driver. I am currently located in Ireland Dublin. Can anyone recommend a person/expert/professional/shop where I could get it fixed?
Thanks Aleks
by Anonymous on Oct 4, 2006 at 2:15pm Add comment
by Anonymous on Oct 18, 2006 at 12:40pm Add comment
Just googled dublin printer repair

As they do LCD screen repair, they would probably change the faulty component rather than a larger assy.

You should be able to pickup a set of Torx drivers from a DIY place or motor spares shop for less than 7.50 euro.
by mcprinter on Oct 18, 2006 at 1:04pm Add comment
Hi everybody

I have another problem. a little like power problem but I think it is a little different.
the Power LED of HP1220C turns on for 3 seconds after power swith turned on but then it goes off. and then just turns on resume LED if I press resume botton. absolutly nothing work. even the power LED doesnt turn on again by pressing power button!!!
it happends after I disassembeld Logic PCA board in back of printer.
sad news is I disassembeld my second hP 1220 printer for maintenance of the first 1220C , but this happends for my second printer as the same as first printer.
hope someone help me.
by Anonymous on Oct 20, 2006 at 8:39pm Add comment
I responded to a post like the one just before this last night, here's what I said:


If you have power problems and have replaced that darn resistor, carefully inspect the board for bad solder joints, a few people have found bad connections, resoldered them, and their power supplies worked much better.
by Stephen on Oct 21, 2006 at 5:20am Add comment
They lied to you. The bottom panel does not come off. The printer is built from the ground up. You have to disassemble it from the sky down.
by moe on Oct 22, 2006 at 10:15am Add comment
1220C service manual part 1


I think you'll be able to find the other parts on the same site.
by Stephen on Oct 22, 2006 at 5:54pm Add comment
I cannot get my deskjet 1220c to print true halftones from my photoshop "print with preview" window once i've entered the dot sizes and so forth. If will however, print halftones from coreldraw, who's halftones aren't nearly as clean. Am I missing a file? What do I need to do?
by unknown on Nov 10, 2006 at 9:27am Add comment
another no-power problem and the solution....

hi all
first let me thank you all for your support on this board. i´ve learned a lot.... :-)
well, i had the same probs as many of you. green light flashes -> no power-up.
i consulted my local dealer (who is a real crack !) and told him about the probs and the solutions discussed on this board. well, bad luck !! no power-up. r13 tested good, voltage measurements are ok. after a few nights of measuring and thinking he found the problem. it was the “glue-prob”. a diode (d74 ?), destroyed by the f***ing rotten glue. i´ve posted 2 pics (urls), where you can see (or even NOT!) the location. the diode lies under this capacitor (A) within the glue the cap is fixed with. he replaced the diode (as you see “bypass” (B) ) by a larger one . machine works.

pic3a: http://hometown.aol.de/Rookie\%201cb/003a.jpg
pic4a: http://hometown.aol.de/Rookie\%201cb/004a.jpg

so, maybe this will help some of you to fix the “green-light-flash-and-no-power-problem”.
please, notice:
1: there are lots of tiny diodes and resistors beeing packed in rotten glue-lakes on the power-supply. every one of those could be damaged.....
2: if.... my local dealer bernhard (THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!)
would not have been appealed to his honor...
you cannot pay the hours of searching. if you don´t know someone who is a specialist and just helps you for nothing ´cause you´re a nice guy... forget about and kick it into the butt :-)
remember: it is not getting younger ore newer by that (although i love this printer...) and maybe tomorrow the next diode will kick the bucket....

thanks again to all members and all the supporters of this board......!
rainer from germany
by unknown on Nov 14, 2006 at 9:17am Add comment