Yes, they can be reset. You need a serial interface that can be made pretty cheap and also hex editing and programming software. Depends on what type of chips are on the cartridges though. If its OEM then buy one of the easily available kits with chips and most of them can be reprogrammed easier.
Hi, I am looking to reprogram the chips for my CLP300. I am quite happy and comfortable with creating a serial interface and with the hex programming. However I wondered if you could provide some specifics? Such as what pins of the serial interface connect to what points on the chip and the data that much be written. I am looking at programming after-market chips. Does a chip programmer already exist on the market which can be purchased?
Hope that helps. I have also completely torn down my clp-300 and am working on a tutorial that will help in cleaning the developer housings up in case you wind up like I did and get a bad batch of toner and have to clean things out and start over.
Hi, Thank-you for the link above - I think I'll have to get down to Maplin and buy a few bits n bobs!
Just a couple of questions if you have time...
1) Did you make the very simple one (LPT without the diodes) or one of the more complicated COM port ones? I am thinking I will have to use LPT as the COM port never seems to work on my machine! :(
2) What are you using to hold the eeprom in place whilst programming to remain a contact with its pins? ie - What are you using at the end of your "wires" that is small enough to "attach" to the pins of the eeprom?
3) When looking at the chip, how would one know which is the correct orientation of the eeprom?
Thank-you for your help so far - it is certainly very much appreciated!!
Actually, I used the diagram located on the 3rd picture down the page located here http://www.chiprecharge.com/images/siprogeng.jpg Its a very simple serial connection. Parts used consisted of a 5VDC adapter, 2 x 5.1V Zener Diodes (1N4733A), 2 x 1/4w 2.2k Ohm 2% resistors, an old db-9 serial cable, a piece of perfboard, and the copper pins from and old telco m-m connector.
I cut the perfboard to fit the circular guard that surrounds the driven gear on the cartridges. Then I took the copper pins and bent them to act as contacts on the back of the cartridge so that all I had to do was lay the perfboard on the back of the cartridge when I wanted to reset or reprogram the chips. The rest of the parts were laid out and soldered onto the perfboard to follow the schematic in the picture. Lastly the ac adapter and serial cable were soldered to the appropriate contacts on the perfboard.
All total took me about an hour to fabricate mine and about 10 minutes to figure out the settings for the chips in the software.
If you look at the business end of one of the cartridges and hold it so that the gear is facing you and the toner dispense tube is at the 12:00 position the contacts will be towards the 3:00 position. The contacts are as follows,
Top Left = Data Bottom Left = Clock Top Right = +5 VDC Bottom Right = Gnd
That's pretty much all there is to it. Once you get to where you can read the chips then you can tell the differences between the colors and also see what has to be edited in order to reset the chips. Note: You will probably not get consistent data by reading the OEM chips and you won't be able to reset them obviously.
Hi, Cheers for that - that certainly has been a great help!! I'll have to get down to Maplin though now and get hold of some perfboard (good idea by the way, lol!), zener diodes and 2.2kOhm resistors! From what you say above, it seems you do not have to actually connect to the PINS of the eeprom, more just the four contacts on the chip!?
I am gonna have to try and find somewhere other than Maplin I think actually as they don't seem to sell a few of the things needed! :(
Ground on pin 5 of the DB-9 serial cable, the cathode of the zeners, the bottom right contact for the chip pcb (as viewed in the above instructions), and the ground of the 5VDC adapter, are all tied together as a common ground in this circuit.
The +5VDC from the adapter goes to the contact on the top right of the chip's pcb as viewed above.
The version of PonyProg I am using is 2.07a. I haven't tried his latest release yet. The settings used are I2C bus 8bit eeprom and most all of the aftermarket chips I have seen are 2402. In the serial setup if you have the adapter built and turned on but not connected to a chip it should test ok if you click the probe button. The settings I have are Serial and SI Prog API and no other boxes are checked.
Hey, Well, I've made an attempt at making one and guess what... it doesn't work! :( - I failed, lol! :)
I can plug it into the com port, press probe, and it says ok (even with no power plugged in) however if I try and read anything it says device not found. One thing is though, I was finding it difficult to locate a 5v DC adapter so am using 4.5 instead - would this matter? I can't imagine 5v adapters having an error margin much less that 0.5V can they?
More than likely you either have the pin out on the serial cable switched male vs. female views or all the ground points in the circuit aren't tied together like they need to be. Do you have your contacts for the chip's pcb in the right order?
Hey, I have had a little play around tonight and... have got it working!!! At the same time I changed the power supply from the DC adaptor to a USB lead (using just the red and black) so I don't have to use a wall socket. I have read the old yellow chip, read and new yellow chip (already bought it) and then wrote the new to the old. One thing I found is that the contacts have to be pretty solid else you end up with a "hardware/bus error". I am going to purchase some small bulldog clips tomorrow hopefully and clip the wires to the chip from now on so as to get a good connection. It means taking the chip off the cart each time of course but seeing as it's only once now and again that you need to reset the chip, I can live with it!
I haven't got the other colour chips to read the brand new setup from however from the looks of things if you just set all the top bits to 1 (well, the words to FF) and similarly with some around the middle then you are along the right tracks?
I'll post a bit of an update soon but it's late now and I'm up for work early, lol!
I'd just like to say thank-you very much for the help you all have given - it is very much appreciated!!! :D
Congratualtions JohnK_UK. I might get around to trying the latest version of PonyProg and also converting to USB as well.
I'm also working on an instruction guide for a teardown, cleanup and repair of these printers. I went through a bout with a bad batch of toner that really screwed mine up and had to literally tear it apart, clean it out and rebuild it. Despite the machines compact design it's not that bad to rebuild or repair. Of course I have pretty heavy use of mine but it needed to be cleaned up anyway. In the 2 months that I have had this printer I have went through 6 full sets of toners and average about 12% coverage. Needless to say it was pretty dirty inside even without the bad toners.
As a helpfull suggestion, read all of your hex files that you get from all four colors. You'll see the 4 places that it uses to identify each color. Don't pay as much attention to the ASCII though as it can be misleading. Apparently it does distinguish between HEX 00 & FF and are not read the same. To get the machine to think it is a new cartridge change the date and also the crum number and clear anything to HEX 00 on all the lines but the 8 that are obvious.
Once I get screenshots of sample code and the rebuild tutorial I will post them somewhere that they can be of use.
And also, if anyone feels the need, donations are accepted!
Managed to post a few screen shots of the hex. This should help in creating your own hex. Remember to change the crum number and the date to simulate a new cartridge.
I'm hoping to make another device after the weekend but a lot neater and mounted in a plastic casing with longer wires etc, ie, something that can be connected to the computer and left there without the risk of getting snagged and broken!
Unfortunately I cannot read fresh files for cyan and magenta as I don't have new chips for these however I will quite happily post the files for black and yellow if anyone is interested? That way, rather than editing the chip data before uploading, you can just upload the corresponding file.
South Raven - if you need any help on any further developments then feel free to contact me - I'm not an hardware expert by any means (I did a microcontrollers module in my Computer Science degree but that's about it) but I might be able to help with some aspects and perhaps some programming if required Cheers!!
I have a full set of new chips (non-samsung) just purchased and will post them up as soon as i can read them. They are european chips (will not work in US and vica versa)
I just bought a set of these; item # 220196122192 on Ebay; should be ideal for clipping to the chips and color coded
May try and build the parallel interface as have the cable already
Clicking on the provided links, in fact, I also got a "forbidden" message but copying/pasting the links to the internet navigator (Firefox) it worked.
But I need more details: when you say "change the date and also the crum number and clear anything to HEX 00 on all the lines but the 8 that are obvious"...
What is CRUM? Apparently the four digits after CRUM- are 2 for the year and 2 for the month. Is it right? And the rest? What should be written there?
Cheers for those - are the top sections necessary though (000000-000030)? I read some new ones I have and there is no section at the top, just 000080-0000B0.
Keep in mind that this is from a set of US cartridges. Bits 01h, 11h, 1Bh apparently all represent the cartridge color and this is why the cartridges aren't interchangable. The same sequence is duplicated again beginning with 80h. These also show the format and place for the date in the form of th year and the month and the crum number as well. To get them to behave as a new cartridge clear all the other data by editing the hex and filling with 00h and change the date and the crum number. If you don't change the date and the year then if you reinsert the cartridge the printer will rewrite the old usage data back into the chip and you won't see any changes in the smartpanel. I use mine until the printer detects the toner level getting lower than normal in the developer housing and triggers a toner delivery problem and then eventually it will give you a message in the smartpanel that the toner cartridge is invalid.
btw. the post about USB came from me but maybe it might also be possible do take 5V direct from LPT Port
I've seen it on other Programmer scematics Conected pin 4,5,6,7,8 together with 220 Ohm Resistors on each pin and a 47uF cap between GND and PWR line to get constant voltage separation
Does anybode tested this very easy programmer shematic?
Crum number appears to be anything - I just put in a random first two digits and it works fine. I've also made a little box for the resetter this afternoon and mounted everything along with a little guide glued to the top. I've even stuck an old LED I had lying around onto the +5V to give a nice power light. :) - I'm quite proud, haha!!
Just to confirm, I'm using the DB9 schematic with USB providing solely the +5V.
As for the hex codes, the UK versions do not need the duplication - they only need the second series (or at least it appears with my chips - all reset and tested working fine like this). Just be sure to change the date/crum number as I found this affected it. I believe you can use any values.
Got mine to work using LPT and two-transistor interface (dunno why I went this way; I guess because I already had the parallel lead and DB25.) I'm no electronics guru but there seemed to be a lot of literature precedent on the internet for the use of that lancos two-transistor interface
Could someone please explain from the above screen dump which bits are indicating the cartridge is full and what it would look like when the cart. was empty?
I haven't tried to decipher the hex to determine the usage pattern that is written to the cartridge. I have been mainly interested in just resetting it and keeping toner in it. With the volume we have I usually reset it about twice a week and refill it once a week. We are averaging 12% coverage with what we print.
I'm wondering what would happen if you were to just clear all the data from the (chip fill it with 00h) and insert it into the printer what would happen. After all, when you first get the printer new in the box the starter cartridges do not have chips on them.
I don't believe you can re-use the same brand new dump over and over without first changing the crum number. I think the crum is similar to a MAC address for normal hardware - ie, "unique" to the chip. As said above, I think the counter is in the printer and not the cart as you can wipe a cart and the printer still thinks it only has a low amount in it until you change the crum number. Had anyone tried changing only the crum and leaving everything else in tact?
Actually I have. If you keep the same crum number then the printer just thinks it has removed and reinserted. I have been resetting the crum and date though and not just the crum by itself. I have been using 2 hex files with each color and just programming back & forth between them. The printer only keeps track of the current cartridge and has no memory of the previous one. I think the counter and other usage data is in the printer as well. The only real data I see getting written into the cartridge is when you first install it and then again when it disables it.
If i understand it right it may be enough to take two chips for every colour an only exchange the chip after the cratridge is empty
is this right?
So the best solution for me would be if i buy 1 new cartridge set and setup a chip on the cartridges which comes with the printer and even exchange/refill empty and exchange
for example:
Cartridge 1: cartridge which comes with the printer + third party Chip
Once the cart is empty it will write this to the chip. I'm not sure how you would go on swapping between two though and doing it before it's empty... could be an option...?
I've thought that Status is saved in printer and not in Cartridge - so the printer remember the CRUM or anything like that and don't write something to the chip on the Cartridge
That's why it would be good to have a hex from one and the same cartridge when it is brand new and when it's empty ;)
I'm new to this forum, and have recently purchased a Samsung CLP-300. It is a factory refurbished and I got it from 3BTech in South Bend Indiana for $129.
This thread fascinates me as I have been looking for a way to reset the toner chips as I have done in the past with my older Epson C86.
When I received this CLP-300 I don't think it was really refurbished as the smart panel tells me that the toner levels are just about empty, but for the price I can't complain. I did carefully drill the hole and refill the black one, but the smart panel still says it's just about empty.
So I want to try this circuit and Pony Program to reset the black cartridge. Then if I can get this to work, I'll do the other colors.
My question is about the 2402 chip. Where can this be purchased? I'm sure Allied Electronics sells them, but I don't think you can place an order for a small number of pieces valued at a couple of dollars. I live in Southern California, Big Bear City. If you have any suggestions I would be very appreciative.
The best thing to do would be to buy one of the aftrmarket refill kits off ebay or from a shop somewhere that comes with the 4 refills and also the chips. That way you get them already mounted on a pcb that just sets over the top of the old chip on the back of the cartridge.
Ben_10 - I have a suspicion that it may only be required to change the crum number and the date before a chip is killed as it appears that the counter is stored on the printer and not the cart itself...
So you would change the date eg 200610 to 200611 and the crum date digits eg 0610 to 0611 and also another digit in the crum to be on the safe side? I wonder if only certain crum's are permissible as an extra hurdle?
crum and date are not related other than the fact you need to change them both to make it think its a new cartridge. Also the date is not checksummed into the crum either.
Hey mate, did you ever get round to doing the cleaning guide? I think my printer needs it - it's refusing to work. :S - makes a few of the normal noises when you start a print job then stops and the red light comes on! :(
Well, I took all the pictures but got distracted and never transferred them from the camera to the computer.
Check your waste sump. Mine does the same thing when its full. Also turned out that I had one of the augers clogged up. There are 2 of them that move them waste toner from the drum cleaning area uphill to the sump and the other one comes from the transfer belt cleaner over to the sump.
Hi, I've emptied the waste toner and tried cleaning the augers with the hoover but to no avail.. :( Any more suggestions? It sounds like something is getting stuck when it's trying to start up..
Are you sure the imaging assembly is latched into the printer good? What kind of error are you getting? Their should be something in the Smart Panel as far as an error or status. Also, all of the drive mechanisms are on the right side of the printer. If your hearing noises or something abnormal try to isolate where the noise is coming from. Perhaps their is something in the paper tray causing the paper stack to be too high. Not enough clearance for the paper feed roller will cause it to bind and make a grinding noise when the clutch slips.
The more you can tell me about its misbehavior the better I can probably help you diagnose your problem and perhaps get you going again.
In the meantime I'll see what I can do as far as getting the images from the camera and editing them for a guide on this printer.
Bloody hell - fix one problem and another arises! :(
Now the printer is leaving faint streaks down the length of the page. This is on all colours. I have tried shaking the imaging unit etc to distribute the toner properly but no luck. Is there anything else which might cause this?
Light streaks or dark streaks? I've had light streaks happen a couple times and had to open it up and clean off the metering blades on the developer rolls. These clean pretty easy since they are made of steel and not flimsy mylar like many. Make yourself a CMY test pattern and make a colored rectangle about an inch high and 8" wide and make one for each color and print that page. That will tell you which developer housing is doing the streaking.
Hi, The streaks are light streaks and always appear to occur in the same place on the page. I've done the test and black and cyan are pretty poor! Cyan fades a lot over on the right-hand side with a bit on the left, magenta has a very faint line on the left and black is poor right the way through! :( How would I go about cleaning? Do I need to dismantle everything? Sorry about the dumb questions, lol!
Sorry about the delay. I know I had said I was going to put together a cleaning guide but I have been laid up with the flu for the last week.
Sounds to me like you need to tear into it and clean the metering blades. If you do one you might as well do them all while you have it open. If you do it carefully then you will have almost no loss in toner. Basically the procedure is pretty straightforward. For tools you will need a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a small soft bristle brush (make sure it don't shed) and a vacuum cleaner that will catch toner dust and not just let it blow right through.
Remove the imaging unit from the printer and remove the toner cartridges and the waste sump. Locate the 2 phillips screws that hold the drum assembly onto the imaging unit. If the drum is facing you the first screw is just above the drum itself. You'll see the plastic support arm. Be carefull and don't nick the drum surface with the screwdriver handle here. The other screw is located on the right side and also holds one of the channels that augers waste toner up to the sump. Carefully pull back on the left bracket while at the same time push to the right on the right arm. The drum retainer assembly will literally pop free once you have cleared the plastic boss' that hold it so be ready and don't jump or you'll probably ding the drum. Rotate the drum assembly back towards you and you will notice wires running in a groove on the bottom left. Just swing the assembly around to give yourself room and at the same time prevent the wires from getting damaged. Once you are at this point then its easy to just slide out the 4 developer assemblies for cleaning.
Each developer assembly is secured using 5 screws. 2 of them also have spring steel "Z" shaped pieces. Remove these 2 first and set the Z shaped pieces aside. Then remove the 3 remaining screws and gently lift the cover off the housing. The cover also serves as the metering blade for the developer roll. Carefull with the front edge, it has a really tiny curved lip to it and will give you a really nasty cut. I found that one out the hard way the first time I opened mine up! Vacuum off the top inside of the cover. If you look at the edge of the blade you should be able to see toner stuck to it where your streaks were at. Take something soft like a popsicle stick and run over the edge to scrape off the stuck toner. Don't use a lot of pressure here or you will bend the cover and blade and then it becomes junk. When your done the edge should be free of any burrs or stuck toner. Make sure you look close as it don't take much here to cause an image defect.
Once you have cleaned all 4 of them re-assembly is pretty straightforward except for one detail to watch for. Place your cover on the developer housing and start the 3 screws but DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM! Look carefully at the developer roll on each end and you will see a foam seal. These seals must not get trapped under the cover/blade. Carefully take a small tool and pull the seal out from under the cover/blade. Use gentle pressure to hold the cover down and maneuver the seal out. Once the seals are clear then tighten the 3 cover screws. Put the Z shaped pieces back in place and tighten them as well. Your dealing with a plastic housing here so watch and reuse the same thread and don't over tighten.
That's pretty much it. Just reassemble in reverse and put everything back together and hopefully this will cure your streaks.
Hi, I tried cleaning it and am now in a somewhat worse position than when I started, lol! DOH!!!
Now, the lines have disappeared from the cyan, magenta and yellow but the black is still faint. Additionally, I have now managed to get a dark, myrky line running from the very top of the page to the very bottom, right over on the far left of the page. This is a mix of yellow and black. I have checked both imaging units and they seem fine although one thing I noticed about the black is it didn't contain quite as much toner as the rest when opened.
After printing my test sheet, if I look on the drum, I can see toner deposits on the left which have caused this. I have cleaned the drum but it still happens.
I've scanned the sheet and uploaded it here. The top is a bit knackered as I banged the scanner (and couldn't be bother re-scanning as it takes ages!) but you get the idea!
Hi everyone, I tried to reset the chip of cyan and magenta cartridge for my clp 300. I wrote in the chip but only from sector 00080h. Then i put the cartridges in the printer but the chip aren't resetted. I used the circuit with serial port with 2.2kohm resistor and 4 diodes 1n4148. If I read the chip i have the reading. Please could someone help me? Thank you Raf
made the reseter as described (using com port 2 resistors & 2 diodes) I can read the chips but cannot write anything to them?? they are supposed to be smart chips (purchased with refill kit) any ideas
JohnK_UK; I have come to the conclusion that the transfer auger and chute assembly on these printers is a regular problem. Twice now I have had to remove that particular assembly from the printer and manually vacuum it out. For whatever reason the toner keeps backing up in the housing until it has nowhere to go and then it will start dumping out the left side of the transfer assembly and also through the cleaning blade and I get toner spots all over my printed paper on both the front and back. I have seen it severe enough that it leaves a brownish toner trail stuck to the transfer belt that of course also winds up on the printed paper. The transfer cleaning mechanism is all functioning properly and nothing broken and the drive and driven gears are all working fine as well as the chute that the toner should be getting pushed up through to the waster toner hopper. This is probably what happened to your machine John. Granted I probably have a much higher use than most here on the forum as far as this printer goes. I have had mine since the first of the year and right now have just over 30,000 prints on the machine and so far have had to clean out this transfer housing twice now.
I recently upgraded the firmware on my CLX-3160FN (uses the same toner as the CLP-300)... according to Samsung this upgrade was supposed to "conserve toner" and offer other stablility improvements... in fact the new firmware had the printer complaining about my "refilled toner" (constant errors, flashing red light)...
Annoying, but I could live with it.
What I couldn't live with, and what's hard to believe, the print quality was degraded all of a sudden (uneven, blotchy)... the problem was obviously a direct effort by Samsung via the "firmware bomb" to prevent use of refilled toner (printer status reports were still perfect). Way to screw the customer Samsung...
Just wanted you to know that with the info here, a bit of soldering, and PonyProg I was able to reprogram all the toner EEPROMs and the printer stopped complaining and returned to full print quality!
I have a CLP-300 and upgraded the firmware to the new version on their website v1.00.12.35. DON'T DO IT!!! My printer has factory-original toner and this firmware upgrade made my printer a piece of crap.
With the new firmware, the text output is much thicker and fuzzier, the nice grayscale contrast is gone and replaced with much darker tones, and there are ERRORS in the graphics that show up as squiggly white lines. I'm appalled that Samsung released this firmware into the wild as it's effectively crippled my printer's output and makes even simple sheet of text look unpresntable.
I've written Samsung twice asking for some resolution, but haven't received a reply. This is horrible. I'm ready to throw my printer out the window and buy a Brother.
Thanks SO much!!!!! I had light streaks in the black color and followed South Raven's advice on how to clean the metering blades and it works perfect now! Again! Thanks!
Most laser printer issues normally come from needing a good cleaning. Toner is pretty nasty stuff and virtually impossible to keep confined 100% of the time.
Hello, I have built the chip reseter, but I have one question, when I connect the serial port to the computer does it have to be recognized by windows ??? I've checked the connection pins many times but nothing, and how am i supposed to know which com port to select in the program setup menu?
any way i got the computer to recognize the device finally... but guess what?? it doesn't work, each time I try to read the chip with the configuration I2C 8 bit eeprom & 2402, and each time i click on read it says : device not responding or bus busy !! and if I don't connect the chip to my circuit it gives me another error message, which means that the program is woking fine. If i click on another configuration and try to read, all the bits I have are either 00 or FF, and i get the same result even if i don't connect the chip to my circuit,
The chip reseter worked perfectly fine.. but there is one big problem.. if the printer detect the cartridge as empty, I can't write on the chip !! exactly the lines before 0x0080 ... is there a solution for this problem ???
I have the Xerox Phaser 6110 which appear to be exactly like the Samsung CLP300. The samsung tone chips are rejected. Does anyone have toner chip programming data for the Phaser 6110?
Also, trying 6110 imaging unit in CLP300 seems OK but RED status light. CLP300 shows ready on computer but print files just disappear and not print activity. Does the imaging unit have a chip in it like the toner? If so, does anyone have a readout of this.
The chip reseter worked perfectly fine.. but there is one big problem.. if the printer detect the cartridge as empty, I can't write on the chip !! exactly the lines before 0x0080 ... is there a solution for this problem ??? Please help !!!
If its aftermarket you should be able to write anything to the chip at any address....if your using ponyprog you can do CTRL-C to clear the buffer and write that to the chip if you want...its the info though before 80h that identified the cartridge to the printer..
Hi ! I am fascinated by the subject of this forum because I was asking me the same questions. Thanks for the answers and for your care to share your knowledge. Also allow me to add my modest contribution, in hoping that it might help in a better understanding ! Many of you are wondering where are located the counters's information about the cartridges. In the cartridges's chips or in the printer ? Here is my little story. As I appreciate excessively this printer (Samsung CLP-300) I decided to upgrade to model CLX-2160 which, as you know, uses the same imaging unit. For a few more dollars I obtained a high resolution scanner, a new spare imaging unit, and a kit of starting cartridges (without chips) and as a bonus a supplementary paper tray. What a deal ! I chose to set aside the new imaging unit and to store it in the "old" printer (CLP-300)in full darkness. But before doing the swap between the used imaging unit originally in my CLP-300 and the new imaging unit obtained with the CLX-2160, I asked a printer report on the CLP-300. I have got the information about consummables life and toner information. As soon as I completed the exchange and installed the "old" imaging unit, complete with the 3/4 full original starting cartridges without chips, in my brand new CLX-2160 printer, I put power on. Naturally I got the Congratulations message indicating that the cartridges had been installed successfully. But guess what ? When I asked for a printer report, I have got completely different figures. All but the imaging unit and development roller life were reset. Imaging unit and development roller life were roughly the same. The toner remains percent values and the toner average coverage values were also reset. Astonishing, Isn't it ? Not really. It gives simply, in a sense, answers to what some of you were looking for ! So it seems that nothing is stored in the cartridge's chips. Only the imaging unit keeps track of its use. The major part of information is managed by the printer itself ! A small information but may be a clue to progress. Thanks for reading.
Hello, I've had a CLX-2160 for about a year now. After about 6 months or so of heavy use in my home office, the imaging unit failed. (The gears feeding black toner stripped) The imaging unit was replaced under warranty. Now the same has happened again, and like claudusw I decided to buy a CLP300 just to get a new imaging unit. I have no intention of using the CLP300. (New CLP300 = $169; Replacement Imaging unit ~$300) But I would like to make use of the un-chipped cartridges which came with it. My CLX-2160, having used its original load of un-chipped cartridges, refuses to 'see' these. Any ideas, anyone?? Also, does anyone want a new CLP300 without imaging unit???
There are many companies that produce aftermarket chips. For example Future Graphics (www.futuregraphicsllc.com) and Oasis (www.oasis-imaging.com). Price for each chip ~$5.
Thanks very much for being so patient with me! Until I read the Uninet instructions you pointed me to, I didn't realise you could stick the new chips over the old ones!
I'm in Australia. Do you know which region I should go for? The installation CD-rom was in English/French, so I suppose it might be Europe, but those languages also work in the South Pacific.
Hi South Raven, Thanks Thanks a lot.By reading your excellent guide lines, posted by you, in this thread, to day I have manged to build one Serial interface succesfully. I read new three clp 300 chips and saved three .e2p files. but the files are not like yrs but like exactly like what mr
ben10 posted ie having full of yyyyyyyy.. and from 00080 to oooBo CY300EXYY...ETC DATA--ONLY ONE SET DATA NOT DUPLICATED --- OK
At present i am not having emptied chip which i can reset Some doubts-will u pl answer 1.If I take out the half emptied cartridge and reset the chip,then it ought to show as full and eventually if the rest half emptied,what would be the display in the smart panel?
2. How to write the new chip file in the emptied chip ie have i to delete all the data in the emptied chip or simply to give write command to overwrite in the emptied chip 3. Or simply edit the emptied chip ie to change date and crum values,as u suggested Once again thank u much for yr excellent guiding words which only encouraged me and made me try this successful and very useful attempt with cheers, kara/India
Hi all..one thing you have to take care of in chipping original non-chipped toner cartridges is that some new chips when stuck into the recess on the cartridge will be sitting too low to make proper contact with the pins. I had this problem and was tearing my hair out..with the printer saying the toner was still empty. I added some padding in the recess (sticky foam works well) so that the new chip sits higher up. Then it worked fine. I think some of the chips that come in refill kist assume you are re-chipping an existing chipped cartridge...and that they will be stuck ontop of the old chips.
Hi, thanks to all contributing to this thread. I think I'm going to buy the printer! But... It's been pretty long (almost 20 years) since I did some electronics back in school. So, if anyone could be so kind and post a picture of a printed board with the elements laid out? That would be extremely cool, since I still got a chunk of copper board and some HCl laying somewhere in my garage! Thanks in advance! Vanko Micin
I think one of the problems some people are having as far as what they are looking at and trying to edit as far as the chip dumps may be that apparently some of us are saving the files in various formats. I have saved and also posted mine as traditional (old school) IBM Binary files which is a raw hex type of format. In PonyProg itself they were saved as .bin files. I haven't tried using any other formats and experimented with possible differences among the formats that PonyProg is capable of but this may explain why some people can't see or edit before 80h.
The suggestion that steve1uk has about using the foam in the recess on starter (un-chipped) cartridges is a very good idea as most of the aftermarket chips are on very thin pcb material and I'm sure will bow into the cartridge when its inserted into the printer.
As far as what will happen if you reset an aftermarket chip and the toner cartridge isn't full, you will see the printer trying to keep cycling for a few times and then it will eventually disable the cartridge and the message in the printer monitor will read "invalid toner cartridge". Refill the cartridge and reset the chip and your back in business.
For those of you that have emailed and asked about me building a serial interface for you, sorry but no, its pretty simple to do and the parts are easy to find to build one that will work for you. I'm not in the business of making a profit on this and there are already aftermarket interfaces out there but to me unless your a refill or repair shop they aren't worth the cost. Especially when you can build one for about $5-$10 and 30 minutes time.
Hi, I just bought a refurbished CLP-300N and am quite happy with it except that the printer have some color or B/W dots where it should be white. Perhaps the drum is dirty? The printer was shipped with the toners already in place, thus jostling during shipping may contaminate the print engine? What should I do? your tear down instructional guide would be of interest to me. Thanks.
Re: Re: Samsung CLP-300 reset chip by kara (7/21/08 10:31 PM) reply
Hi South Raven Thank u for ur response. When it is saved in .bin format,of course it is saved, but it is not opening. In Pony Prog it is being suggested to save in .e2p format,that is why I have saved the three ( C,M,Y ) files in .2ep format
Hi, I programmed the chip of my black toner cartridge when the led is not blinking. i wrote the chip with the hex codex as you suggested in the messages; after I put the toner in the printer and I saw the black led is turned on and the printer goes in failure. I rewrote the chip successfully, but the situation is the same. Could someone help me? Thank you in advance Raf
Samsung CLP-300 for Sale (No Imaging Unit) by Anonymous (7/29/08 4:29 PM) reply
Hi Mr maani, i am also encountering the the same problem. I am able to edit anything at both 00 to 030 and 080 to 0B0 in the edit buffer and able to save in .bin or in .e2p format but when given 'write all', it comes only 'write failed ' message. immediately if i give 'read all ' command, i see at 00 to 030 the same original data ie nothing is rewritten,but at 080 to 0b0 it is being written as edited-----tried in several ways but in vain. Can anybody help us ? with advance thanks kara
Hi again. I made the circuit myself. And I'm having problems probing the device with PonyProg. Here is the picture at http://www.ziva-legenda.com/ostalo/chip.jpg Could anybody be so kind and double check if I got it right? (I connected the power supply via USB, pin 5 of PC serial directly to GND from USB.) Thanks.
Has anyone had to find a way to reset the counter for the imaging unit yet?
Mine just shut down this evening without any warnings and says to replace it. Image quality and toner usage is still good so I would rather just rest it if possible.
I am having a problem with my Samsung CLP-300. For some reason, on the right side of all of my pages (~2") the printout looks like the text is bolded. Any ideas?
As enlightened people mentioned above.. *The printer only zaps the chip when the cartridge is empty *New cartridges supplied with the printer have no chip
In which case, it might follow that after the printer has read the cartridge once, it doesn't care if it can continue reading it when turned on and used subsequently. After all, if the new cartridges supplied with the printer have no chip, the printer doesn't need to talk to the chip to verify the cartridge is in fact properly inserted.
If this is the case, then you could presumably present a chip to the printer, then remove/cover the chip before the printer zaps it, so that it can be used again.
Although, as stated above, the same chip can't be used again immediately, another chip would need to be used with a different CRUM to tell the printer the cartridge has been exchanged.
Sounds like you need to clean off the metering blade on the black housing. I've found out through heavy usage that the metering blades are one of the weak spots on these printers as far is image quality and that toner will cake on the blade and cause anything from mild streaking to an overall faint image.
I have no idea how to clean off the metering blade on the black housing. Could you PLEASE let me know how? Feel free to email me at briansklute@lizmoore.com if you prefer. Thanks!
I have a Xerox 6110; I made the programmer and it works, it reads and it writes.
I purchased 4 chips CMYK and now I am trying the black chip. But it does not work.
The dump shows a code similar to the one posted for the Samsung, but it has the word EUR instead of EXP and other minor differences. It seems reasonable, but the printer red led says that the printer does not like this black toner (and it said "invalid")
I am guessing that the chip should be for the CLP-300... this was also on the envelope; the vendor assured me it works for the Xerox, but it does not work... and it seems the printer can read the chip as it wrotes a couple of A5 (hex) in both 128 bit sections (so I put the chip in the correct position etc).
Can somebody link a dump gif image (or email me the e2p files) with the codes for *working* xerox chips?
I am puzzled as I have everything but apparently not what I need :( .
Change the word EUR to EXP and it works. Because the first one is EURopean version and the second is EXPort version. You are using an export version printer.
Try reading one of the expired Xerox chips and see what you get. Post an image of the dump and we might be able to figure them out. You should be able to read the Xerox versions ok but just not able to write to them.
update: I sent the (new, not expired) chips back to the vendor and he will replace them. I bought them several weeks ago and on the envelope it was "samsung CLP-300 chips", I complained about this but he said "they work also for Xerox".
I had the chance to test one chip (the black) only now, as I didn't use the printer so much meantime. The original black toner was without chip.
But the good part of the story is that I saved the email from the vendor (the response to my original complaint), so now I complained they seems actually not ok, and "I said this when I purchased, see here...". Yesterday they wrote "send us and we will replace", without questions or other comments.
Will let you know as soon as I have the replacements. My guessing is that the Xerox chip contains different data. Or something magic and I will have to end to buy original replacements :)
FYI the chip dump is almost identical to the one I copied the link in my previous post. Just the date and CRUM where different, and on the very bottom instead of 20? x (FF) there was written non(FF)samsung(FF)product
Has to be something differnet in the data on the xerox chips. If anyone can read a Xerox OEM chip of any color and post the data I'm sure that we can figure out the differences and come up with a fix.
As for my Samsung, the wife want's to make a video of her tossing it out our 3rd story window and post on utube and send to samsung as well. Myself I want to figure out a way to reset the imaging unit counter. We wound up purchasing an Oki C5150n to replace the samsung and the prints from the Oki are so much better that there isn't even a comparrison in quality.
for B/W I have an old OKI 14ex and it is really good (and does not have protections: well I paid it a lot of money but it was worth it), the only problem is the cost of the drum replacement (and I suppose the printer won't work forever, also :-) )
the samsung/xerox is not top class, but imho the engineering is good... considered the price, the design seems not that bad to me: it is small and serviceable.
as for print quality, mine is quite good, but I still have to find a laser printer that can print photos decently (at least like a good inkjet). We will have to wait some years, I suppose.
I built a serial interface and can read an aftermarket chip, but under the security bits in ponyprog 2 and 3 are stuck on which I believe then doesn't let me overwrite the date and crum. Is this correct and if so can I bypass it? Thanks.
Hi. I just got a new CLP-300 and came across this thread. I checked my cartridges and found them to have no chips. I was wondering these "chipless" cartridges will automatically update the toner level when additional toner is added.
Re: Re: Samsung CLP-300 reset chip by kara (9/12/08 3:28 AM) reply
Hi,atanarus It is not so,'chipless'indeed, but after u emptying the cartridge by printing if u simply refill and try to pint without the chip,which is an additional and unwanted and business oriented burden to the printer holder,u cannot print. If anybody know the trick to print without the chip please do post it here for the benefit of all clp300 holders kara
The only "chipless" cartridges are the starter cartridges that come with the printer. The printer sees them and only allows them to be used for the first 1500 or so pages or until it has calculated that the cartridge should be out of toner. Once they have been used in the printer for the first run it will never allow this type of cartridge to be used again and instead will tell you that it is an invalid toner cartridge or to insert a toner cartridge.
As far as toner refills go the best source and price I found for known good toner was through printerdoctor.com. He has both toners and chips and will sell you whatever you need. He also has a store and auctions on ebay as well. Other toners that I tried tended to cake up very quickly on the metering blade of the developer housings. As it was I had very high usage of this printer and had to open it up and clean the blades off about every 2 refills.
As far as the yield, I don't believe it is effected by refills. There are an IR pair of sensors that watch the toner level in the developer housings and between calculated usage and these sensors it determines when it needs to add toner from the cartridge into the housing. If it sees a valid cartridge and tries to add toner into the housing but don't see the level rise then it will trigger a cartridge error. The only way a refill is going to really cost higher then normal usage would be if the toner is a poor quality and has a high waste amount that winds up in the sump instead.
The sump is easy to dump. Just make sure you do it over a fairly large opening trash can and a plastic bag of course. If you have a good vacuum you can get even more dust out of it. Make sure the filter in the vacuum is designed small enough to catch toner particles. Household models aren't designed for this and even if it has a hepa filter it will trash it.
It seems like all the posts appear way-too-hard for the 'casual' owner. I read that if you constantly keep the toner cartridges "topped off", there will never be an occasion where the printer stops because it's out of that particular toner in the cartridge.
Question here is this: How can we hack each of the toner cartridges so that even though they are empty, they never register as empty?
I believe that is the simple solution to Samsung's Nazi product mentality (like I can't tell that one of the toner cartridges on my printer is empty?)
i have also one xerox 6110 and the toner chip programing are a litle diferent that samsung, i´m from portugal and i have read the hex files of samsung and xerox and they are a bit diferent, the image unit also have a ATML chip on it that have and stores the information about it. any question just ask. hope i can help
Re: Samsung CLP-300 reset chip by kara (10/12/08 6:38 PM) reply
Hi,anybody, i tried three 'emptied' chips to reset but in vain. the Restter with Ponyprog READS OK, but DOES NOT WRITE/OVERWRITE ANYTHING!!! can anybody suggest any solution please??? kara kara1947@gmail.com
I found that a set of replacement (refill) chips I had bought were partially writable. Some other bits as well as the crum and date were locked somehow which, of course, is what I needed to change. Anyway, I bought chips from another company (Dubber Toner) and they were fully writable. I would say that if you can read any chip then your setup is fine and to buy diffenent chips.
Just my experience
Re: Samsung CLP-300 reset chip by kara (10/15/08 8:26 PM) reply
Thank u guys, As Mr xcelgmuer says,I had the same experience with the first chip. I purchased 10 chips in an another company;in these chips I found READING OK BUT WRITING FAILS! All these chips are 'after market' only,nevertheless what to do my bad luck! kara
Has anybody managed to get a hold of South_Raven's guide for cleaning the CLP-300 Metering Blades. I believe that I have the same problem as described by South_Raven. Lately my CLP-300 has started printing light streaks on the right side of color prints. The streaks seem to only be for CYAN only. The other colors seem just fine. I read his previous post about how to fix it, but before I go tearing my printer apart I'd like to know if there is a more detailed guide (hopefully with pics) :-) Thanks in advance.
I will be attempting the blade cleaning. I will take pictures of the process. If I am successful then I will post a write up of the process.
Does anyone know how dangerous it is to leave the imaging drum exposed to light for that long? I will try to keep it covered with a towel as I thought prolonged exposure to light will damage it and this cleaning seems like it will take awhile.
Thats useful to know. I never heard anything about exposing the imaging drum to light. Good thing I waited until I got more info. Looking forward to your post.....thanks for the help.
I used refill toner and replacement chips from image-toners on ebay. The chips worked perfectly.... however, the toner is a different story.
Did you read my post a couple posts up? Yeah, I need to clean the imaging unit becuase of their crappy toner. I bought a new imaging unit(it was almost at its recommended usage) only to have the problem pop up again on the new image unit. If you do not want to have to clean the imaging unit after just 1 toner refill then don't buy from image-toners on ebay.
Has anyone come across compatible chips which cannot be properly read or written with the serial i2c interface and PonyProg?
They appear to have a different chip in them; probably a 34c02 rather than a 24c02; this has a software write-protect feature for the first half of the array (is this how the chips are 'zapped' by the printer?)
Still don't understand why they can't be read with ponyprog; i know this chip isn't specifically listed in ponyprog but thought it should still work?
mAYBE THE manufacturuers have managed to include a feature which stops it easily being read by a simple interface? Can anyone help? South Raven maybe?
South Raven Thank you for posting these instructions. My CLP300 showed streaks down the page before the first black cartridge ran out. I took it back to PC World who said I would have to buy a new inaging unit. When I pointed out that it was only three months old they let me have the unit from their demo model. Earlier this week, the same thing happened again and I bought a new black cartridge. This did not solve the problem and I guessed that PC World wouldn't oblige again. I would have dumped the printer but having just spent £50 on a cartridge, I decided to try these instructions. 20 minutes later and it's up and running like a new printer.
Yes, much thanks for posting this info. I actually got Samsung to send me a new Imaging Unit before I stumbled on this forum. But if the new imaging unit ever starts acting like my old one did I am now confident that I can fix it. Thanks again.
Re: Re: Samsung CLP-300 reset chip by kara (11/30/08 4:24 PM) reply
I have been watching this thread for a while now, because I also invested in a CLP-300, because it was cheap at Staples. I have to admit, I like the machine. It fits on my desk very well. Print quality is not the best but certainly acceptable. And I know that consumables are very expensive, so I have been refilling the cartridges, too. But, of course, the machine knocks those chips out of commission pretty fast, before the cartridge is even empty.
I have tried to make a chip resetter per the instructions early on in this forum, but I do not have an electronics background. So I did some online research on how to read schematics and made a resetter as I understood your instructions, but it just didn't work. Plus, at least one of the resistors got really hot to the touch immediately, so I don't have it right at all.
Two of my friends who know schematics cannot tell where the problem is in my setup.
BTW, my serial port was turned on and working. PonyProg only says that the port is either busy or the device is not working.
I wish I could see a pic of one of your circuitboard setups, how each component is attached and wired. I made a simple sketch of my setup, but I have no way of forwarding the .jpg to you through this forum (that I know of).
So could one of you posters supply a view of your actual successful circuitboard? If you have any questions, let me know.
Yes, I'm with rinjerd here. I would LOVE to make a chip resetter for myself. I read the earlier instructions, but also do not know how to read schematics. I have a friend who can help me, but a picture of a working resetter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks In Advance.
I got it working. First I had problems and tracked them down to zeners - they had to turn them :-) after reading about proper orientation (google always helps). Look at my previous post (8/1/08 6:47 AM) there's also a link to the circuit board i made. Note the high artistic value! Hope you get it to work!
No, I was interested in a drawing of what the board looks like with wires, etc. -- not a schematic. I had already seen your drawing and it's still a schematic of sorts, that agrees with the original schematic. Wish I could email you my own crude drawing.
Well, anyway, I guess I'll make it over again, because it might just be an accidental crossing of wires somewhere. Can't figure out what else it could be.
As I understand, the cathode of the zeners is on the ground side, according to South_Raven (1/25/08 5:28 AM), but the original schematic that he referred to shows them with the anode on the ground side -- which is it??
Yeah, it's getting there. Thanks so much for your help.
If you want, you can send me your email address to rinjerd@hotmail.com (my secondary email) and I'll send you my diagram. That will show you what I am referring to. Also, it will show you that I have it basically correct.
So cathode is ground, eh? Then the original schematic was wrong!
Sorry, my scheme was wrong right at the diode orientation ( I now corrected it)and the original scheme worked for me. ANODE is ground! My mail is rpavlic at gmail.
Anon, I just sent you my diagram of how I soldered on the components.
Note that anode is ground, per the original schematic (this means that South_Raven was wrong on that). This page is a very short discussion about diodes and how they work:
and it agrees with the original schematic that the point is the cathode. Other sites debunk the long-standing theory that current flows from positive to negative.
So I'll make another setup by this weekend and see how that works. Thanks.
please help me what is the exact components of the clp300 reseter because and any picturial diagram for most simple and easy instruction i want to try make my own reseter
Well, I took great pains to remake another interface over the weekend, AND IT DOESN'T WORK AT ALL! So I am about ready to table all this effort and relegate myself to just buying the chips. Pooh!
Danny, you can read the early posts in this thread for info and especially go to the links that are mentioned, for pics and things. I can send you my simple sketch, if you inquire at the email address I gave in my 12-3-08 post -- but I don't know if it will be of much good to you at all; it's quite possible that I missed something important, and the original posters who were able to make it work don't seem to be reading this any longer.
So that's the state of affairs for me now. My thanks for everyone's input.
Re: Samsung CLP-300 reset chip by danny phil (12/12/08 5:33 AM) reply
thanks for your concern im so glad to hear that, may be i need to read it all over again, im trying to make may self a simplified reseter, b'coz of having a problem of my printer thanks again rinjerd,
As mentioned by "by Anonymous (11/2/08 11:09 AM) They appear to have a different chip in them; probably a 34c02 rather than a 24c02; this has a software write-protect feature for the first half of the array (is this how the chips are 'zapped' by the printer?"
I to have noticed this, My question would be has anyone found a chip that is not locked out and can be reprogrammed as many times as needed. That would be the cats meyow. I have found chips that when it warns you that the toner is getting low it locks out what a pain. Ican read ALL I want just cannot write any thing before 13th location of 000060 If that makes any sense. As you can tell I am not real knowledgeable at this. Chet
Hi, I tried to read chip with JDM + ICPROG. I read sucessfully Yellow cartridge, but when try it with Black, Magenta & Cyan... a message appears: "NO ACKNOWLEDGE RECEVIED". I try many times, but only can read yellow cardtridge... Any ideas?
Sounds to me like you have a problem with your serial interface and/or the program settings. Recheck your serial port settings and also the settings in the program setup.
Hi This thread makes very interesting reading but does not explain my findings
I recently purchased a stock clearance printer sold as new unused It arrived with the original (unchipped) toners still in sealed wrappers. The printer was replacing a broken printer (a clp 300) so I installed the cartridges (chipped pattern replacements) from my old printer and got part used readings for toner level - this is what I expected, not having read this thread at this stage. I then noticed that the cartridges supplied with mynew machine had no chip (had not spotted this before) so I tried installing a (previously thought empty)original unchipped cartridge that came with old printer - To my surprise i now got report of this cartridge from smartpanel that I had installed a FULL cartridge. So I then took a previously thought to be empty chipped pattern cartridge and removed the chip and then installed this in the printer with the same result - smartpanel reported full cartridge. I then made up in word a text document with different colour text for Black, Cyan (close as), Yellow and Blue and this printed fine. Whilst the print test does not prove amount of toner, it did at least to me show there is some left to use. It was at this stage I started looking if forums for any reference to chip function and found this thread.
There is mention in this thread of the printer locking up if no chip in cartridge but this has not happened to me, or is it a time bomb waiting to go off??
Unless I am missing something, does my experience not show that chips are not required for the printer to work??
Could it not be that if you use an unchipped cartridge the printer assumes you have inserted a full original cartridge and will count down accordingly and when it shows empty you just need to take it out and re insert to carry on ??
Not believing myself what I have written I have just taken out another colour chipped cartridge showing empty and inserted an unchipped (thought to be empty) original cartridge and smartpanel again reports this colour now full - It can't be getting that from the chip because there isn't one!
Thanks in advance. Refer to previously post. I found a solution for reading chips CPL300 The problem is ICprog. I tried with PONYProg with same JDM card and chip selection. and have't problem to all.
Ponyprog, can read all cartridges... well done. In my particular case, the simil chip hasta 24c01
The tonerchips has be 3.3v but there are working fine with JDM at 5v
Thank you South Raven and Centran!! It works! It prints like new again!!! Yes, yes, yes!
I was having issues where one side of the page would print lighter than the other. Cleaning the developer units fixed the problem completely. You DON'T need a new imaging unit, just clean the caked on toner on each developer unit blade and it will work like new again!!!
Fascinating thread. Actually I have a xerox docucolor but I am hoping that the reset chips for the drum cartridges work in much the same way. From some of the previous posts I deduce that: 1/ the counter is in the printer not the chip. 2/ the chip contains a unique serial number. 3/ If the cartridge becomes empty(based on the printer counter) the chip is writen to as empty. 4/ The printer only remembers the chip number that was last in. Therefore If the chip is changed before it is empty, whatever chip is put back in will register as full. As long as its not one written as empty, or the chip that's just been removed. If the above is true it seems the answer is to have two sets of toner cartridges ( or indeed drum cartridges in the case of the xerox) and change from set 1 to set 2 just before becoming completely empty. When the one from set 2 becomes nearly empty (but not empty) then swap back to set 1, continue ad infinitum, but don't let them get reset. Has anyone tried this?
Sorry should have added one more important point. 2b/The chip contains a date. (manufacture date?) This could in principle be used to prevent useage after the use by date even though the unit may still be serviceable. This might prevent indefinite reuse as described above.
I came across a fascinating patent online http://www.freepatentsonline.com/EP1217456.html filed 2001 so could apply to printers made after this date. In this it describes how a crum chip can be killed by writing to an address which prevents subsequent read/writes. I guess this applies is the proprietry chip not the remanufacture chip. It also implies that the count is stored in the crum chip. But obviously different printer manufacturers can use the eeprom in different ways.
Well, I've been using chip after chip and getting tired of replacing them (esp. the black toner) after 500 to 1000 copies. So I check back on this forum and see some more interesting info.
I still want to make a working hardware interface. I like the link that NOlife 3/13/09 has noted, but that page says to go to a Google blog site to get a "very detailed" description of the construction of that interface. But every time I go there it asks to sign in, so I created an account and it still won't sign me in, so I reset my password and it still won't sign me in. It keeps doing that over and over.
So does anyone have that info downloaded that they can share here?? Or anywhere else to look for it?
I finally got fed up with this printer. If someone wants to purchase my printer with aftermarket chips and parts (extra imaging unit and new magenta and yellow cartridge) and my homemade chip resetter let me know. To be upfront, I will not garentee anything. The software said the fuser would "overheat" sometimes and the transfer belt needs replaced. Currently the prints were lighter on the bottom half the page. I just have too many various issues with this thing. Thanks.
The imaging unit electronics are located behind the front cover of the imaging unit. Remove the toners and you will see a phillips head screw in the cavity where the toners are inserted. Remove the toners, and the waste sump, take out the 2 screws, pop 2 tabs across the top and one tab on the bottom left where the sump was and you can remove this cover. Once its removed you can see the gears, solenoids and other electronics that run and control the toner dispensing. The wiring from the imaging unit to the printer chassis runs underneath the imaging unit to a connector that is exposed under the left front edge of the drum if you turn the unit so that the drum is facing you. This is also the same bundle of wires that you see in the pictures that were shown when you are cleaning the developer housings and you rotate the drum assembly away from the developer housings.
Considering the number of functions that the imaging unit does and the number of wires that are in the bundle I believe they are using serial data again here to communicate between the printers main pcb and the imaging unit pcb.
http://www.w109.com/2008/en/products.asp?id=894 to south raven So there is a reset for imaging unit. just that others people find it and we dont. keep searching but this nite I've got left only 3 hours to sleep so I call it off.
Do you need at reset chip ? I was thinking, the printer is delivered with some toner-cartridge that do not contain a chip at all, so may be it run fine without a chip ?
Selling Samsung CLP-300 and reset chip by xcelgmuer (4/27/09 9:34 AM) reply
I'm listing this again. If someone wants to purchase my printer with aftermarket chips and parts (extra used imaging unit and new magenta and yellow cartridge) and my homemade serial chip resetter that is usb powered. To be upfront, I will not garentee anything. The software reported that the fuser would "overheat" sometimes and the transfer belt needs replaced. Currently, the prints were lighter on the bottom half the page. I just have too many various issues with this thing. All of this for $75 (includes shipping to US only) through paypal. Thanks.
Thanks, I think I'll go ahead and buy it. I can use the parts, but I am most interested in your resetter, which you have said that it works for you. I'll probably email you with some questions once I get the package.
Please can anyoen help I have a CLP 300n, proabably about a year old, been working fine on a set of replacement cartridges, now we are getting a red light. I used to be able to pull the toner assembly out then push it back in and it would work, now all we get is a red light no matter what we try. I have followed the instructions above and dismantalled the toner assembley and cleaned the top lids of them all with the hoover, I left the toner in the tray , not sure if I was supposed to hoover all that out too. I also cleaned out the waste dump with the hoover, but still a red light, anything else I can do am really stuck. Do I really have to buy another?
I have been watching this thread since I brought my CLP-300N.
I brought my printer 2nd hand but it did not come with any tonner, I brought a full set of compatible tonners from eBay.
Now my black tonner says it's empty, but if I remove the refill bung there is a good 1/4 of tonner still left.
I have made the simple com-port interface and can read my chip, but I can only write from (80) to (F0), no matter what I try I can not write any new data from (00) to (80).
I've the same problem. I tried to reset the original chip and it seems as if the important area that contains the serial number is protected... So, do we have to buy 3rd party chips and glue them on top of the cartridges? (Sry, if this was already answered, but I did not read the _whole_ thread in detail)
I know my question has nothing to do with resetting chips, but I was just wondering if anyone can tell me what "dev.home error" means? I ran Samsung Smart Panel and this is what came up, now the status indicator is at a steady red.
Can anyone help?
-Tom
Re: Samsung CLP-300 reset chip by Mike L (8/26/09 1:53 AM) reply
Don't give up! First part of chip is doesn't metter. Write correct information in second part of chip and go ahaed! All non original chips are fully programable.
Read an OEM Chip - but could not write (must be write protected) to prevent reset.
Read Magenta Compatible ok, changed the first 4 numbers after crum and seems to work in printer,
This one was taken out a while ago as it said it was empty but as there was a bit of toner in, i reset it and it worked. Even printed the usual sheet out sayin "toner installed successfully"
Just need to verify with each colour what needs to be changed in order to get them to work
Hi again, today my xerox 6110 is dead, black cardtridge are blocked without flashing led or low toner. I tried to reflash, but I cant writre the first bytes, and when try to write only de 2nd part of memory printer refuses to do anything. I tried with many roms and programmers but cant change the first group of data. Now I fill with random numbers and characters and the printers wakeup but the quality DROPS to NONE in both colour and B/W. I wish to return of quality!!! help
PD: The chip is a refill chip and dead at 050% of toner.
Hi, now again here. Finally I can do. I replaced IC AT34c02 with someone 24c02, i tried too with internet romdata, with no acknowledge for the printer. Printers one and anotherone refuses new romdata. Manu pictures of dumprom are filled with 00 when my chip requieres FF. Elsewhere, I fill romdata with new-new rom info, and printers works again with 0 pages, 100% remains toner. The CRUM n° basics, canbe random, in my particular case.
This is a fascinating thread. I have a question, if most of the ussage data is stored in the printer, is it not possible/easier to modify the contents of the printer?
Re: Re: Samsung CLP-300 reset chip by loi (10/22/09 12:45 AM) reply
does anyone sell permanent reset chips? I bought some cartridges from Ebay which had been refilled and they worked fine, then I bought a set of ink and chips for more money from ebay only to discover the ink comes in huge bottles but there is only enough ink for 1 refill and the chips have to be replaced! so what was the point it's actually less advantage to buy the kit seeing as I have to refill em manually. What I'm after is permanent reset chips and a supply of ink refill powder? any tips?
i made serial interface, and it works, it reads my chip, BUT, i dont how to change or reset my chips, what button should i click to reset it please mail me..HELP!
i know someone who sells permanent chip, mail me loi0323@yahoo.com
Hello, you must read posts above. Here exist many ways to reset chip. Remember, the reset procedure is equal to Reprogram data in memory (many times 24c02 compatible). If you need faster chip reset, must be write all data with random data and install it. The printer recognices it how a refill cartdridge and drops quality signifactily. In the recents post exist the data to reset it. Carefully choose a new CRUM number to lies about procedence of it. Are you using PonyProg? if its case, I can send a copy of rom (remember choose a crum number similar to your region of cartridge).
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