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 | HP III 50 Service error by Michael (4/22/02 1:23 PM) reply | + / - | Howdy.
Started getting 50 errors. Fuser is relatively new (+/- 1 year old, printer used VERY lightly). Pulled out the fuser, then replaced it -- and the printer worked (fuser would heat) just fine -- until I powered the printer off.
I could do this EVERY SINGLE TIME for about 3 weeks -- turn printer on, get 50 error, pull fuser, replace fuser, turn back on, okay.
(All along, I was suspecting the AC power module -- just procrastinating about fixing it. Though the halogen lamp was clearly okay, I nevertheless tested the fuser, got two ohms across the pins, though strangely, I was never able to read 1.1M to 1.7M ohms across the 3rd & 4th pins on the other side, it just read open....)
Finally, my technique stopped working, and I'd hear solenoid CLICKING sounds. Ordered an AC power module from you guys, just put it in -- and I'm getting the 50 error again.
HELP!! What else could it be??
Thanks,
MS
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| Re: HP III 50 Service error by moe  (4/22/02 3:22 PM) reply | + / - | From your description, I would have bet the ac power module would fix it. Since all the ac power modules get tested before shipping, we can rule out the fact you got a bad one. You should try our tweaking page and tweak the fuser connector on the dc controller. If that doesn't work, the only other thing it could be is a bad dc controller. Are you sure you're not getting any reading across the temperature sensor? While I've never seen one go bad, there is always a first time. If the dc controller doesn't get a reading, then it would give a 50 error.
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 | Re: HP III 50 Service error by tom jobe (4/22/02 4:52 PM) reply | + / - | I've had a similar 50 service error problem with an HP 3 recently and it is now working. If you remove the fuser and put it back in, it generally will work as long as you don't turn it off, recently it worked for one month, and currently it will not fail even if you turn it off. Awhile back I could not get it to stop giving the 50 service error, no matter what I tried using the same parts. As for measuring the 1.1M to 1.7M across the temperature sensor, my experience has been that you need a "real" ohm meter to measure it with, the $5 VOM only shows it to be open, when in fact it actually has the 1.4M (or whatever) ohms, which may be why Moe has never seen this failure.
Thanks Moe! for hosting this message board.
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