asked Jul 10, 2005 at 10:38am
Hp HP DeskJet Plus

HP LaserJet 1300 with torn fuser film

My boss’s HP LaserJet 1300 started crinkling every page (upper left hand corner). I determined printer had a torn fuser film, which I assume is causing the problem.

It was only 1.5 years old, but he decided to dump it and buy a new printer because the cost of the replacement fuser (plus time and effort to replace) it wasn't worth it (I wasn't even sure whether fixing the fuser film will stop it from creasing pages).

Anyway, I rescued it and took it home, if nothing else for replacement parts (I have a friend with the same printer). However, I looked on eBay for replacement fusers, and instead found replacement fuser films. A little more looking, and I found this site.

So, my questions are:
1) Are replacement fuser films still available from this site? If so, how much would it cost (including shipping to Eastern Massachusetts)? Does it come with installation instructions?

2) Is it likely that replacing the fuser film will fix the problem with creased pages (or should I look for some other problem as well)?

3) I like to think of myself as pretty handy when it comes to fixing things (I recently took apart and replaced the LCD screen in my laptop, for example), but when I was taking apart the HP LJ 1300 to see how difficult replacing the fuser would be, it appears quite complicated. What is my chance of replacing the fuser without damaging something else in the process?

4) Is it worth replacing the fuser film? Will it just rip again, making it a waste of time and money? Considering this printer isn't network ready (which would be nice), and the cost of a similar HP printer, I'm not so sure.

5) If I am able to fix the fuser film, and get the printer working properly: does anyone know whether it is possible to take the JetDirect Printer Server out of an HP 1300N and pop it into an HP 1300 (I'm hoping to find a junked 1300N on eBay)? Are there other HP printers that have a compatible (LIO-based) Print Server?

- Ben
The fusers in the 1300 series are mostly plastic, and they are easy to damage, same story for the 1000 and 1200 series.

Even if you don't break any parts you might find broken parts when disassembling one of these fusers, and not all the small items are available.

I would recommend replacing the fuser rather than attempting to rebuild it, much less stress that way.
by Stephen on Jul 11, 2005 at 7:19am Add comment
I agree with Stephan on that one. We tend to replace whole assemblys in the field, it is simpler, and less stressful. Our company does rebuild the fuser units, but we send it to the home office. They have people who do that, and only that, for a living. I haven't heard many complaints about the 1300, although they are a pain to disassemble (think 3D puzzle) I am sure a Service Manual would come in handy. Check out Moe's reference section. Good Luck!!!
by bisawest on Jul 11, 2005 at 7:32am Add comment
It has to be able to stand up to 400 degrees F, and it must be safe to use on plastic.


You should get your parts from this site, I believe they include lubricant with the sleeves they sell.
by Stephen on Oct 15, 2005 at 6:20pm Add comment
If I felt this was a repair that mostly anyone could do, it would be available as a kit. In truth, the job rates a 12 on our 1-10 difficulty scale. We don't have any instructions available to replace the film even though we do stock the film for our own internal use. A replacement fuser assembly runs a bit over $100. They aren't too difficult to replace. I'd give it an 8 on our scale.
by moe on Jul 10, 2005 at 11:43am Add comment
You have the film available for "internal use", but do you have it available to purchase? I can't even find the 1300 listed on your website. If you can't/don't sell it, is it worth the $40 from someone on eBay (which is supposed to come with instructions), or can you recommend another place I can purchase it from?

- Ben - unknown
Everything we own is for sale. If you want the website, make an offer. As for pirateBay parts and instructions, let the buyer beware. There are different films available. Some are OEM quality, some are cheap Chinese knockoffs. I wonder what they sell on pirateBay? As for instructions, been there done that. When the pirateBay thieves include them, they aren't very good. Questions or complaints, they give them our phone number. We offer a repair kit complete with film, lubricant and video instructions. http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/kits/hp/K94
by moe on Jul 10, 2005 at 12:14pm Add comment
I think I also need a fuser sleeve film. How much is it? - unknown
just you can replace the teflon sheet with the low cost and you can get the printer back again.

with rgds,

by ramjimh on Jul 11, 2005 at 2:50am Add comment
You can use HP 1200 or 1000 instead.
Their's film just all the same and compatable to each other.
by healthup on Jul 11, 2005 at 6:55am Add comment
Status Update:

I received the replacement fuser film from fixyourownprinter.com, and just found the time to install it this evening (despite the staggering heat and humidity).

Everything went well during installation, and I got it back together and working. The printer now prints perfectly and no longer creases the pages!!

One thing I noticed though: the fuser film still seems to be sliding to the right hand side of the printer just slightly. I'm not sure if it is a problem, so I took the printer apart again, and slid the film back to center. However, when I got it back together again, as soon as I turned the printer on, it slid back to the right. I'm assuming that it is because I didn't coat the the grease evenly enough underneath the film, but maybe that is how it is supposed to work.

At the moment it is working perfectly (knock on wood), and I'm going to just keep an eye on things and hope for the best.
by unknown on Jul 19, 2005 at 6:43pm Add comment
Anyone able to give me instructions or a diagram on how to replace the fuser film sleeve? Feel free to email me if you can help. Thanks.
by Anonymous on Oct 6, 2005 at 11:02am Add comment
This is something that really can't be explained with written instructions. Fuser disassembly is just too complex and difficult. We offer a repair kit complete with film, lubricant and video instructions. http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/kits/hp/K94 - moe
Moe's right...i've done 100+ of these repairs (it's the only real problem that the 1000, 1200, 1300 laser printers have), but it's a 12 on the scale of 1 to 10. Practice is the only thing that helps.

i've broken my fair share of fuser parts. the heat makes many of the components prone to easy breakage. i'm lucky, as i have fuser parts galore on hand...another problem is that the screws strip easy in some of these printers (during disassembly), especially ones that have been opened up previously with power tools...

i couldn't even imagine a write up on how one should tackle this repair...best of luck.
by chris on Oct 7, 2005 at 9:47am Add comment
I have a 1300 that has a torn fuser film as well. I have an extra 1300 that i use for parts. Does anyone have instructions on how to change the fuser?

by bsouls1211 on Oct 12, 2005 at 8:07am Add comment
I have an 1150 with a torn sleeve. I got a replacement sleeve, but didn't realise that I need to grease underneath it. Can somebody tell me what grease I can use for it?
Thanks a lot.
by unknown on Oct 15, 2005 at 9:29am Add comment
Stephen, thanks for your reply. I didn't know about this site when I got my part. Now I'll try to buy stuff from here.
by unknown on Oct 16, 2005 at 9:21am Add comment
Be careful rebuilding that fuser, some of the plastic parts break very easily.

I generally recommend just replacing the whole fuser, it saves time, and you don't end up looking bad because you broke something and now have to order a fuser anyway.
by Stephen on Oct 16, 2005 at 10:25am Add comment
I have an HP 1300 in very nice condition only 23,372 pages printed. It creases the top left corner of every page (so I guess it has a torn fuser film). I can take PayPal. I am also missing the dust cover for the paper tray. Would $50 + shipping be fair?



eBay ID: AuctionBays
by AuctionBays on Mar 15, 2006 at 2:22pm Add comment
I have a used 1300 with torn fuser film. It is taken pretty far apart, but all pieces are here and in working condition except fuser film, if anyone wants it let me know.
by Anonymous on Apr 4, 2006 at 12:04pm Add comment
I have 2 HP 1200 or 1300 Laserjets that both need new fusers. I would be interested in buying them, but do you have instructions on how to install them?


by Anonymous on Apr 24, 2006 at 12:15pm Add comment
I dont know if my hp 1300 has the same problem as everybody elses here. but when i print i get a crease at the top left of my page, but when my printer fed a sheet of paper through without printing on it, it didnt crease at all, so i thought it must be in the toner cartridge. am i wrong? cos i was just gonna replace the toner and hope for the best. let me know please.
Peter Haley (UK)
by Anonymous on May 3, 2006 at 10:30am Add comment
Was able to replace the fuser film without problems, it was about a two hour job (the first time) and I have over 20 years experience repairing computers, electronics, and printers, and had the HP service manual to help. (note: the HP manual does not contain any info past removal/replacemnt of the fuser ASSEMBLY. There is no teardown info past that).
by Anonymous on Nov 19, 2006 at 10:30am Add comment
> I have a used 1300 with torn fuser film. It is taken pretty far
> apart, but all pieces are here and in working condition except
> fuser film, if anyone wants it let me know.

I just saw this post and if you still have the unit, I'd sure be interested. Drop me an email, if you please?

by jelewis on Apr 22, 2007 at 7:40am Add comment
by unknown on Jan 5, 2008 at 4:15am Add comment
They sell a film kit here:


by Stephen on Jan 5, 2008 at 6:14pm Add comment
guys how about Chemplex High-Temp Silicone #710 for fuser usage ?

anycoments ?
by upulhad on Mar 31, 2008 at 10:39pm Add comment
I do not recommend chemplex 710. The fuser lube is close to the stuff we used on Sharp 7900/8300 series fuser gears a few years ago, but is very costly. About $30 for a small 4 oz. bottle.
I think the Chemplex is too slippery and may not be compatible with the plastic sleeve material. Try PrinterWorks, Densigraphix or Katun. They usually have the right stuff. - Anonymous
Sucks big time!
by moe on Mar 31, 2008 at 11:48pm Add comment
Well after a year or two of using Chemplex 710 and Partsmart's white grease I am stuck. on metal films like the 4250/4300/4350 use the Chemplex, as well as the Partsmart 1oz grease, gum up after about 6 months use and slow the film down to give a smeared printout. On plastic films not as bad and usually a year for the Chemplex but it still gets thick and slows them down. The plastic sleeve material works fine with the Chemplex and the white grease (no chemical damage to the film, metal or plastic) but the grease thickening is the problem. Anyone have a brand and type number for a grease like Moe sells? With the number of fusers I build $30 for 4 oz would be a killer and I prefer a larger amount maybe a quart paint can size. Chemplex is rated -40 to +400 F but the heat seems to change it. Partsmart's 1oz grease that is yellowish melts clear if you heat it on a spatula over a range burner and the white grease they include with the film kits is fine over heat but gums up over 6months to a year as well. Not familiar with the Sharp type grease, what color is it? Any idea of a brand name for it or is it Sharp branded?
by unknown on Sep 9, 2008 at 9:56am Add comment
Why not just get a maintenance kit for $119 from:


It comes with an already rebuilt fuser.

It also has all the instructions right there on the site.

by Anonymous on Sep 22, 2008 at 7:31am Add comment
Anyone can buy a maintenance kit and you still have to tear the unit down to remove the fuser, rebuilding a 1300 fuser is the easy part of the whole ordeal.

To update, I found out from a number of sources (Moe being one, Liberty Parts Team another and some other rebuilder techs I know) that the better choice for fuser grease is Uniflor 8172, available from a number of sources including from Moe. It has PTFE in it and the specs show a much better short and long term stat. It's a bit more expensive though but from the 3 fusers I have in test at customer sites right now it seems to be a lot more reliable. - unknown
1.5 yrs later and the Uniflor 8172 has proven to be the only grease that works even on the 4250/4350 metal sleeves. I'm just now starting on my second 100 gram tube so 100 grams goes a long way. Probably have done 100 or more fusers with that tube and I'm not stingy with it (of course there is a point where it's too much and can cause other problems if excessive). I now have one tube in the van and one in the shop for bench work.

The Chemplex 710 is good for gears and things that are warm but not fusers. I had to replace the heater core in my Aerostar, used the 710 to lube the O rings in the quick (quick my butt, you need a tool to disconnect them) disconnect fittings when I went to reconnect. Let the O rings slide fine and doesnt mess with the material the rings are made of, and is not water soluble. Sucks for fusers though. Found out the Chemplex is better for paintball guns and lubing the shaft in ice cream machines. I keep my one tube of Chemplex around for gears and shafts now.
by unknown on Feb 23, 2010 at 10:06am Add comment
The Uniflor 8172 has been discontinued. It's now Uniflor 8192. New and improved and 50\% more expensive than the outrageous price they charged before.
by moe on Feb 23, 2010 at 10:08am Add comment
I just got a tube of 8172, vendor must have had plenty on hand. Same price as over a year ago too.
by unknown on Feb 23, 2010 at 10:10am Add comment
I hate to revive a dead thread but I wanted to mention something: I just replaced the fuser film sleeve on a 1300n and it was ridiculously easy. Perhaps the "12 on a scale of 1-10 difficulty" refers to another model" but on the HP LJ1300n it's cake.

It's the first time I have done it and it took maybe an hour. I used the HP service manual (available freely online) to get the fuser assembly out and then I used 2 youtube vids to take the assembly apart and replace the sleeve.

If you are being put off by the promise of it being difficult, stop reading now and give it a shot.
by lastwraith on Jul 10, 2012 at 3:01pm Add comment