Ray Miller

asked Mar 16, 2001 at 4:39pm
Hp HP LaserJet 4V

HP 4V fuser removal from unit

I received the 4V 50 kit & video. Unfortunately, the video starts with dis-assembly after it's been removed from the printer. I ordered a service manual, but it's just a quick ref. guide, which gives no details on getting it out of the printer. I don't see any obvious screws or catches, & don't want to force anything. What am I missing? (BTW fast delivery on the kit- thanks)
There are 7 large black screws in the fuser assy.
Remove the 2 outside ones closest to you. You'll see 5 screws on the top of the fuser. Remove the outboard screws and the middle screw. Pop out the charge transfer roller (don't touch the roller itself). The ends pop out of the brackets. Pay close attention to how it comes out so you can get it back the same way. Pry the side of the case away from the fuser and lift each end out. Reverse the process for installation.
by moe on Mar 16, 2001 at 4:57pm Add comment
Well, the "2 outside screws" closest to me are missing... Can I get replacements from you? Are they important? At any rate, it came out fine. It was a breeze. Now for the fun part...
by Ray Miller on Mar 16, 2001 at 5:23pm Add comment
I thought that was the hard part. We have lots of those screws, but it'll probably work without them. I'd leave out the two outside top screws, the middle and bottom screws should suffice. Have fun and pay close attention to the instructions on the video.
by moe on Mar 16, 2001 at 5:59pm Add comment
Ok. The 2 "outside ones" closest to me are missing. If they are important, can I get replacement screws from you? The rest went smoothly, but on checking the old bulb, the resistance (1.8 ohms) was the same as the new bulb. Seems that's not the problem (!#Aargh$$!). Now that I've got the unit all apart, are there some meter readings I can take that will narrow it down? The 3 prong plug showed 5V & the 2 spade plug (white/black wires) showed zero. I presume that's because V would only be applied when fusing. At any rate, on re-assembly, I still got the "50 service"error. What now?
by Ray Miller on Mar 16, 2001 at 10:54pm Add comment
The 2 prong plug should read about 2-3 ohms. That reads through the lamp and thermal fuse. The three contact plug is the temp sensor and the 2 outside contacts should measure around 200 ohms, varies with temperature. If these readings are good, I'd suspect a bad power supply. That's a bit more difficult and expensive to replace.
by moe on Mar 17, 2001 at 10:44am Add comment
connect printer to another power bar or to the wall.
your pwr wupply may be weak.
by unknown on Mar 17, 2001 at 1:08pm Add comment
2 prong plug read open. Removed thermal fuse from circuit & tested it. Reading: infinite. Thermal sensor reading, middle & one outside plug (yellow wires): 222k ohms (other outside plug has no wire). I take it I need the thermal fuse. How much, & do you still have my visa info & shipping?
by Ray Miller on Mar 17, 2001 at 2:28pm Add comment
I wasn't sure if you meant continuity or open by the "zero" reference. We have the thermo protectors in stock and I can also send you the missing screws. The protector blows from an overtemp condition. It could have been a one time thing, or it could forbode a power supply sticking and not cutting off voltage to the fuser like it's supposed to. I'll have to email you pricing info on the thermo protector. You'll need to monitor it after you put the new thermo protector in so it doesn't overtemp again.
by moe on Mar 17, 2001 at 3:37pm Add comment
I have the same problem. I ordered the halogen lamp from you, but when I took the unit apart, I found that the lamp was good but the thermal sensor (with the two yellow wires) is bad. Half of the sensor is missing and the wires are sticking out. Looks like the roller rubbed against it to the point where it just fell apart. So I need info on a new sensor. I just ordered the lamp on Friday, so hopefully you have all mu shipping and billing info. I have all the screws and parts sitting on my desk, so I would like to get the sensor asap to put it back together before I loose something. - unknown
Moe, I received the replacement fuse (thermo protector) for the fuser & installed it. Wonder of wonders, it actually worked! Power supply seems to be working properly (bulb doesn't stay on, doesn't seem to overtemp so far). Thanks again, & I'll be sure to recommend you to all my clients & friends.
by Ray Miller on Apr 2, 2001 at 10:58am Add comment
My fuser in the printer went out, I turned it on and it's not warming up, just wonderingwould it be better to do it yourself or pay the 300
bucks for the repair shop to put it in? I am a great do it yourselfer
But for the hassle would it be best to have them do it?
Or is is not the difficult?
Is there a place you can get a service manual for this printer?

thanks

Delta4
by unknown on Jul 25, 2001 at 2:46am Add comment
Moe fixed me up with a fuser kit & a thermal fuse (that's the part that actually went out on mine), and my printer works great again. The video tape he includes shows you exactly how to make the repair, & he has also been helpful on the phone, although you probably won't even need to call him. As to the service manual, you can get one, but it's a small book with very small print. Lots of technical info, but short on step-by-step "how to". I believe you can find the manual listed on Moe's web site. If not, just e-mail him.
by Ray Miller on Jul 25, 2001 at 6:22am Add comment
We added fuser troubleshooting pictures to the site so I don't have to spend so much time answering these posts. Of course, hardly anyone seems to know there is a troubleshooting section on the site.
by moe on Jul 26, 2001 at 6:46pm Add comment
I should have that in stock. You need to email me.
by moe on Aug 31, 2005 at 8:48am Add comment